letting the printer manage the colors results in less choice in terms of paper.
OK, a few remarks.
Firstly, don't confuse paper settings with color management. Epson print dialogs tend to have settings for paper options that affect factors like the amount of ink deposited, printing speed, paper thickness etc., but also (depending on printer model) whether the matte-black or photo black ink channel is used. For instance, this is what that part (some of it) looks like in my Epson printer driver dialog:
Note that the media type setting does not have anything to do with color management, here. There's an additional part in the dialog that's responsible for color management:
If I choose ICM and then hit Advanced, I can select any of the ICC profiles that the Epson driver recognizes. That dialog has some other relevant options as well:
Note that here, the printer asks for both the
input profile as well as the
output profile. Keep in mind that when outputting to a device, there's always a source profile and a target profile. WE often focus specifically on the target profile, but an app (Photoshop, your printer driver etc.) needs to know what the source profile of the image is, too. Usually, this information is embedded in the image file. That is, the image contains a field that tells the app which profile to use to display/interpret the image - it generally does not contain the actual profile. This is important, because printing with a certain profile (or displaying to any device, for that matter) is always a matter of translating data from an original to an output state. The app needs to know how to interpret the original. It's very much like Google Translate: you need to tell it which language you're feeding it and which language you want it to translate your text into. The main challenge with image data is that other than this embedded label that
should tell an app which source profile is used/intended, the data are just binary data, and they could be any profile ('language'). That's why the Epson dialog at the top explicitly demands you to specify which profile it's supposed to use to interpret the source image data.
This may be part of your problem with wonky colors; maybe the printer driver is converting to the correct output profile just fine, but it's interpreting the source image data wrong. If you feed it an Adobe RGB encoded image and the printer driver thinks it's being fed sRGB, there won't be any error or warning and the colors on your print will look totally off (and contrast and luminosity, too!)
I'm showing the drop-down of output profiles available to me, some of which I installed separately from the Epson driver (e.g. the HFA, which is the Hahnemuhle profile I mentioned earlier). Note that I had to check the "Show all profiles" box; otherwise I only get the "Epson standard", which is likely the Epson-provided profile for the media type I selected. In this case, media setting probably (....) influences color management indirectly. Yes, it can get confusing, and to make matters worse, the driver dialogs for your printer will look different from mine. For this reason, it's logical that people recommend using Photoshop to do the conversion, because Photoshop looks the same regardless of what printer is used, so a guide to do printer color management won't have to deal with the endless variations in printer driver dialogs. However, if you're familiar with your printer driver dialog, you can usually (on a quality printer like your Epson) get from it what you need. It's just specific.
There may be several reasons why you see fewer ICC profiles to choose from in your printer dialog as opposed to Photoshop. Photoshop may show profiles that aren't really for printers anyway (e.g. monitor or capture device profiles). Photoshop may be showing additional profiles in a proprietary profile directory that aren't available in other apps on your operating system since they're Adobe/Photoshop-exclusive (at least in the way they're installed). And finally, there can be a setting in your printer driver (as in mine; see above) that hides certain profiles for whoever knows what reasons (probably to try and keep things simple). If you have difficulty using the profile you need in the printer dialog, obviously use Photoshop instead.
The main thing is, and remains, that
the conversion to the output profile should happen once, and only once. If you convert your image into the target/printer+paper profile in Photoshop (the colors should look a little funny when you do that, unless you enable soft-proofing), be sure to disable color management in your Epson driver. The printer driver should just pass the data unaltered (sort of...let's not get too technical) to the printer and not apply any other color management on top of it. For instance, I would set my printer driver to the following option if I were to let Photoshop (or in my case, GIMP) do the conversion:
Alternatively, just leave the original image in a default color space, so either sRGB or Adobe RGB, and let the printer driver do the conversion. In this case, I would select the options as I did in the illustrations above. In Photoshop (GIMP), I would leave the image alone and not apply any color profile, and only verify that the image is in sRGB or Adobe RGB. I mostly choose to work in sRGB because it's the de-facto standard for digital display and apps or devices that aren't color-managed tend to assume sRGB, so it's a safe bet. Don't worry about a smaller gamut; your inkjet printer has a waaaaay smaller gamut than either sRGB or Adobe RGB anyway, at least in the real world.
So, to summarize:
- Convert your image to the target ICC profile only once.
- Do it either in Photoshop, or in your printer driver dialog.
- When doing the conversion in Photoshop, be sure to disable color management in the printer driver.
- When doing the conversion in the printer driver, be sure to keep your image in Photoshop in sRGB (preferably) and don't apply other profiles to it.
- Understand that there's always a source and a target profile, and that a color problem in your print may be related with either (or both).
Hope this helps in any way. If it's any consolation - I do feel your pain, as do most people who have seriously tried to get accurate colors from a printer. But as you've found with your previous printer, once you know how to get it right, you do it that way and tend to forget the complications under the bonnet.