EOS-1v HS

[BobbyR]

I read at a photo.net thread that the trick to getting 10fps out of the HS is not using the rechargable battery pack but actually because the recharge pack depresses a pin in the body that tells the camera to cycle faster.
The thread included a photo of the hole in the AA packs which do not depress the pin therefore not telling the camera to cycle faster.
Naturally they told methods to close off the hole so the pin is depressed with either battery pack.

The thread was four years old already.

Do any of you have much knowledge of this.
Bobby

 

[JBrunner]

I got 4 per hour out of my Eastman View 2D once.

 

[Lee Shively]

I don't have any knowledge of this but I would be wary of trying to soup-up an electronically controlled camera to get more speed in the motor. I can envision over-heating the batteries or frying some circuit somewhere.

 

[Christiaan Phleger]

Back in the fun old days, there used to be a booster pack that connected to an MD-12 for a Nikon FM-2 that would boost the voltage to go from 3.5 FPS to 5.5 FPS. This was when one of the main pro complaint about the F3 was the 1/250 flash sync, and the FM-2 while having the 1/250 sync, had a slow motor. The unit was not widely sold, I only remember it in the back of the NPPA magazine from the 80's. Nikon motors mostly had speed rates determined from voltage, I know all my F3's got a big boost when used with the 16-20v Nicad pack.

 

[BobbyR]

Back in the fun old days, there used to be a booster pack that connected to an MD-12 for a Nikon FM-2 that would boost the voltage to go from 3.5 FPS to 5.5 FPS. This was when one of the main pro complaint about the F3 was the 1/250 flash sync, and the FM-2 while having the 1/250 sync, had a slow motor. The unit was not widely sold, I only remember it in the back of the NPPA magazine from the 80's. Nikon motors mostly had speed rates determined from voltage, I know all my F3's got a big boost when used with the 16-20v Nicad pack.

Well that answers a question about the MD-12; a fellow had a "booster" for the MD-12 on ebay a short time ago and I had no idea what it was and he did not elaborate.

 

[Dirb9]

I don't have any knowledge of this but I would be wary of trying to soup-up an electronically controlled camera to get more speed in the motor. I can envision over-heating the batteries or frying some circuit somewhere.

The 1v HS was designed from the start to do 10 FPS. It was limited to 7 with normal alkaline batteries so you would be forced to buy the Canon battery pack ($150) and charger ($300+) to get the full 10 FPS. As for the modification, the camera will not do 10 FPS with normal alkaline batteries, even if you do the tape trick; you will get a low battery symbol and the camera will revert to 7FPS due to the alkaline batteries not putting out enough voltage. The easiest way to get around this is to put a couple of the Energizer Lithium batteries in with the other alkalines (so you'd end up with 6 alkalines and 2 lithiums). Alternately, you could just load up the entire pack with the lithiums, which would also shave off some weight over using alkalines. The AA lithiums are pretty pricey, so I don't do this.

 

[Christiaan Phleger]

A few months ago, since both of my aging MN-2 nicad packs were a bit too old, and needing a very small amount of higher speed work, I 'boosted' one of my F3/MD-4 by adding on another set of 4 lithium AA's, bringing the total up to 12 AA's giving 18+ volts. Motor and body ran fine, at over 6FPS. My MN-2 Nicads got up to 20v+ when they come off the charger, in the fun old days I'd drain the pack shooting all week then give one full big charge Friday afternoon so for Friday Night Football (Highschool coverage for the newspaper) I'd get a full blast of max FPS, usually for one or two rolls. Smokin!

 

[BobbyR]

The 1v HS was designed from the start to do 10 FPS. It was limited to 7 with normal alkaline batteries so you would be forced to buy the Canon battery pack ($150) and charger ($300+) to get the full 10 FPS. As for the modification, the camera will not do 10 FPS with normal alkaline batteries, even if you do the tape trick; you will get a low battery symbol and the camera will revert to 7FPS due to the alkaline batteries not putting out enough voltage. The easiest way to get around this is to put a couple of the Energizer Lithium batteries in with the other alkalines (so you'd end up with 6 alkalines and 2 lithiums). Alternately, you could just load up the entire pack with the lithiums, which would also shave off some weight over using alkalines. The AA lithiums are pretty pricey, so I don't do this.

If you go to ebay, maybe other sites but ebay is quick way to find them, I bought 40 Lithiums for 53 dollars.
The site showed a Chinese brand but when mine came they were Energizers from overseas.
I saved a lot of money that way and had enough to fill two AE FN motordrives, my Topcon winder and my MD-4.

So are you saying that if I fill a PB-E2 with Lithiums it will cycle as quickly as with the rechargeble batteries?
Bobby

 

[Dirb9]

...
So are you saying that if I fill a PB-E2 with Lithiums it will cycle as quickly as with the rechargeble batteries?
Bobby

As long as you tape over that hole, it should. I don't know what kind of battery life you should expect as I've only done the 6 alkaline/2 lithium thing, and only for special events. I get around 35-40 rolls (36 exp) with alkalines, maybe, expect 50?