Enlarger meters

[JackRosa]

PS - I am also enjoying not to have to read the look-up tables for +1/4 stop, +1/2 stop, etc., as the StopClock does that automatically for me. I've been using the f-stop method for printing for a long time and not having to use the look up tables is a welcome change.
Another feature I am also enjoying is the ability to set up a sequence of exposures (9 for each channel; 2 channels) vs. having to set the dial on my old enlarger timer multiple times during the making of one print: main exposure, dodging, burning, additional exposures for SCIM and other masks.

Not having to write down the various exposures on a piece of paper and then having to read the piece of paper under the safelight are also a welcome change. With the SC, click one button and you get the 1st exposure, click the expose button again and you get the 2nd (programmed exposure) and so on... Better yet, use the foot-pedal . . . .

 

[AgX]

OP stands for "original poster" (shouldn't it be "originating poster?).
Anyway, the person who started a thread.

 

[Chan Tran]

The one between your ears. It has a learning function, an intuition function, unlimited settings and is highly tunable.

Note: It's imperative that you remember to switch it on.

But it's definitely not a meter. A meter is dump and really can't tell you how to expose your print correctly but it can accurately measure the light. The thing between your ear can't make measurement (it may know how bright the light is but can't measure it)

 

[MattKing]

I use an Ilford EM-10 to do what it is good at - comparing light intensities.

And then I use my lens aperture to match intensities.

It makes switching print sizes easy. It also makes setting up to continue print runs easy. And my contact sheets are much more repeatable.

 

[JackRosa]

Thanks AgX

OP stands for "original poster" (shouldn't it be "originating poster?).
Anyway, the person who started a thread.

Thanks!

 

[JackRosa]

Apertures (vs. times)

I use an Ilford EM-10 to do what it is good at - comparing light intensities.

And then I use my lens aperture to match intensities.

It makes switching print sizes easy. It also makes setting up to continue print runs easy. And my contact sheets are much more repeatable.

I prefer to alter the exposure time and use the lens aperture that gives me the sharpest image. You can use your grain magnifier to see how the grain improves / deteriorates as you change the lens aperture.

 

[JackRosa]

Light Intensities

I use an Ilford EM-10 to do what it is good at - comparing light intensities.

And then I use my lens aperture to match intensities.

It makes switching print sizes easy. It also makes setting up to continue print runs easy. And my contact sheets are much more repeatable.

Before owning a densitometer / before owning a RH Designs meter, I used an EM-10 to compare intensities in various areas of a print. This helped me decide what kind of dodging or burning-in in I needed in order to "balance" the print. It also gave me an idea of approximately how much burning in I would need to use in order to get the sky about where I wanted it. Needless to say, this device was not replacement for test strips but it did help me reduce the number of test strips I needed to do in order to achieve the results I was seeking.

The Zone Master II is a huge step beyond just measuring light intensities. I do not own an RH Designs Analyzer but believe it works using the same principle. These devices are awesome!

Surely no substitute for trial & error / test strips to refine what you're doing, but guaranteed to get the initial print very close to where the print should be. Not that the initial print will resemble the final print, but you get the first print right away, regardless of whether your negative will print well on Grade 2 or Grade 3 or Grade 1. I know, I know ... proper exposure and development should take care of that but exposure/development repeatable "perfection" my not be in the cards due to a number of factors that only meticulous care and discipline would control.

 

[MattKing]

The EM-10 isn't linear, so it isn't as capable as any of the more advanced options, but as Jack posts above, it does help.

And with respect to the issue of using your optimum aperture, I find that if the matching process with my EM-10 takes me away from the aperture range that performs the best, my photographic papers exhibit excellent adherence to the reciprocity "Law".

 

[Bill Burk]

The EM-10 isn't linear, so it isn't as capable as any of the more advanced options...

I noticed that too, it relies on a potentiometer attached to the dial. It seems calibrated in arbitrary units. I got mine old and in need of cleaning.

I occasionally use an Omega CS-10, which is designed with a trustworthy optical light reducer attached to the dial. It's "calibrated" in f/stops. The CS-10 does not have a great deal of range, so I often find I have to open up and read... then stop down, calculate the difference and print. I see a few of them in "completed listings" on eBay. They always seem to come in their original box, a curiosity because mine is also in its original box... Almost as if everyone who bought it tended to take care of it.

I have considered buying a more advanced meter, and probably will choose the Darkroom Automation Pyro meter, because I would occasionally like to get readings in situations where the CS-10 doesn't work. I also may use it to take "density readings" for print notes because it's not always convenient to use a densitometer for 35mm negatives.

But I always, always make test strips. If I don't even know the ballpark, I will make a very wide-range test strip. If I know the ballpark I'll make test strips with about an f/stop more exposure than my "last time" print main exposure.

 

[nathantw]

FWIW, I use a Gossen Luna Pro F with the darkroom enlarging attachment. It has saved me a lot of time and effort getting exposures. I usually don't bother making test strips because I take one reading and I'm done.

 

[removed account4]

i also have something that works with my luna pro sbc - the darkroom enlarger attachment ...
sadly, its been in its original box with instructions for - 25 - 30 years -- never been used.
i always found it easy to just make a test strip and go from there ...

good luck finding a solution that works for you isaac, and welcome to apug !

john

 

[DREW WILEY]

For years I used a Gossen Labosix for Cibachrome printing. But I don't see much use for it when printing either color or black and white negatives. And for diagnostic work I use a true easel densitometer, which is dramatically more accurate, and suited for actual log density
computations when establishing illumination requirements etc, and also far superior to a lux meter.

 

[whojammyflip]

I use a Darkroom Automation enlarging meter, and find that it, alongside an Excel spreadsheet, can get me an OK print first time round, with contrast and exposure settings. To do this, I used a guide to calibrate my enlarger, which was recommended here on Apug, written by Paul Butzi. Another excellent resource is Way Beyond Monochrome.

 

[Ronald Moravec]

My feeling has always been that once you've calibrated your film speed and dev and know how to meter for film exposure properly, then you should be getting very consistent density negatives that virtually print themselves. And that means that at any standard print size you should be able to just put neg in enlarger and get very near to an optimal work print first time without any enlarger metering. From that point on no meter is going to help you finesse contrast, burning in or dodging as well as you can yourself if you are practiced at it. So in short you really shouldn't need a meter.

But hey, if you've got gas and haven't learned this yet, then get yourself a Heiland Split Grade unit which will do it all for you so you don't need to use the bit between your ears.

Yes. Absolutely true. And under/over negs can not be printed as well.

From 35 mm, 3.5x, 5x, 8x, 11x,, 16 x all require double the exposure of the smaller size.

The reading cell must be in the exact plane of the paper, therefore do not place the probe on the easel. It seems not to compensate when probe is to high or low

 

[Patrick Robert James]

I bought an Ilford EM-10 a long time ago and never use it. Then I bought an enlarging attachment for my Gossen SBC and I never use that either. From time to time I think about buying one of the RH design units, but it would probably just sit in a pile under the others. I prefer more organic enlarging anyway. I probably do something akin to f-stop enlarging, but have been doing it my own way for so long I guess there is no point to changing now.