I did this test with B&W film and paper; I have no idea how color might complicate things.
I still suggest the test with the grain focuser. It will reveal the best performance for individual lenses. And yes, the test should be done in the corners and the middle, but many grain focusers can't get into the corners. Then again, why stop down further when the center is getting fuzzy already?
I'm not talking about comparing lenses. I'm talking about comparing the effect of f/stop setting with one lens. Just start wide-open and stop down to see how the grain get fuzzier every time you stop down further.
I often make my 8x10 from 35mm at f/5.6 only because it gives convienient time. May be now I should use f/4? My lens is the Nikkor f/2.8 lens.
Fine grain is sharply resolved edge to edge with my old f/2.8 at either aperture. It still looks good enough at f/8, which covers film coverature, enlarger misalignment, and focusing errors better. There is vignetting at f/2.8, though.
That's heavy Zork...
I've got a Durst Neotaron lens that's a 4-element design made by Rodenstock. I'm not positive, but I believe the Durst Neonon is a 6-element design. I don't know offhand if it's made by Rodenstock, though. I don't know a thing about your Taylor Hobs lenses, though.
Just do the test, you'll see what I'm talking about. It's rather obvious. One can clearly see what the best aperture is. When I made the test prints, it verified the grain-focus test but wasn't as obvious.
It' not too easy to do a series of test prints at different f/stops, by the way. You need to have the same exposure for all prints and several factors have to be considered to do that (reciprocity, f/stop accuarcy). If you don't have the same exposure, you can't really compare the prints. Darker prints often look sharper than lighter ones.
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