Enlarger head usind RGB LEDs - Complete project

[lungovw]

Two years ago I published an adaptation of a Durst Laborator 1000 replacing condensers by a LED box. The project used an old TV remote control and had some points to be improved so I did not publish the whole thing, just the basic idea and some leads to those willing to go further in that direction. But, anyway, I've been using my Durst with LEDs ever since and love it. Recently I reviewed it completely and just published a new project, using 3W RGB LEDs and a normal keypad as interface. This time I made available all the specifications including the code that is loaded into the micro-processor (Arduino Pro-Mini) and detailed instructions on critical parts of the project. I made it for photographers with no experience in making printed circuit boards, micro-processors, soldering, etc. As part of the project there is also a control box that works as a timer and mixer for the RBG colors. It allows the use of multi grade paper by balancing the proportions of green and blue, like the MG filters or color heads do. I am sharing this as freeware.

Here is a link to a video presenting the project:

 

[Mal Paso]

Very Cool! Thanks!

Just finished the read:

https://apenasimagens.com/en/enlarger-head-rgb-led-complete-project/

 

[lungovw]

Very Cool! Thanks!

Mal Paso, I saw your post about the Heiland light source. Although your led board is very different from mine, I believe that you can use my timer/mixer just as it is, in case you like it. After all, it has one + and three GND, one for each color, controlled by the micro-processor. In case you are using a 12V adapter it is fully functional with no adaptation. Case not, you only need to provide 5V to the logical circuit and whatever voltage you are using for you LEDs. The TIP120 certainly can handle that current.

 

[Mal Paso]

Mal Paso, I saw your post about the Heiland light source. Although your led board is very different from mine, I believe that you can use my timer/mixer just as it is, in case you like it. After all, it has one + and three GND, one for each color, controlled by the micro-processor. In case you are using a 12V adapter it is fully functional with no adaptation. Case not, you only need to provide 5V to the logical circuit and whatever voltage you are using for you LEDs. The TIP120 certainly can handle that current.

Thank you. I downloaded and printed your first build and read it many times. I was stuck with a 6.5 inch round form factor of the Beseler 45MCRX and a grid of LEDs was a layout problem. I started with 1 LED and moved it around using a spotmeter for reference, to see how the light fell. I went from 4 to 5 diodes each around the edge and the one I thought I needed in the center turned out to be too much. My system is based on a 24 volt switching power supply with the BuckBlock LED Controllers doing the switching/dimming. I have 3 20K pots controlling the dimming but 0-10 volt dimming is built in as well. I have a 3 pole switch for white light and a foot switch for red going in today. The interface with the Philips 2000 timer is a 120V relay which I need to run the safelight circuit through as well. The scale of the pots leaves a lot to be desired. LEDs come on about 18%, I'll check the high end with the Philips at some point and calibrate the scale. I have a switch for blue, green or blue/green.

I lucked out as far as even lighting, it's much better than the florescent tube that occupied the housing. It's true diffusion with better highlights and scratch reduction. The real treat is individual control of each emulsion in the paper. I printed a photo from Pt Lobos of a hillside in open shade, clouds and sea background. I had the green/blue power dials even for about grade 2 and dodged the hillside completely during the green exposure which gave that area only grade 5 light. The shadow area detail popped out, like having Curves in a program I can't mention here. LOL

 

[Kilgallb]

I noticed you made a wooden box. You need to make sure this entire structure is enclosed inside a fire proof (metal box) when energized or it is a fire hazard.

 

[Mal Paso]

It's all 12 volt or less, current limited, not much hazard.

 

[lungovw]

I noticed you made a wooden box. You need to make sure this entire structure is enclosed inside a fire proof (metal box) when energized or it is a fire hazard.

I understand you concern but the circuit does not deliver enough power to bring the box to more than 60ºC. I considered as well that whenever the enlarger is on I am working on it and in case of any smell of something burning I will notice immediately and have easy means to cut off energy. I think it is not a unit to run in a large/professional environment, but being always at owner's sight, I feel safe working with it.

 

[mshchem]

Two years ago I published an adaptation of a Durst Laborator 1000 replacing condensers by a LED box. The project used an old TV remote control and had some points to be improved so I did not publish the whole thing, just the basic idea and some leads to those willing to go further in that direction. But, anyway, I've been using my Durst with LEDs ever since and love it. Recently I reviewed it completely and just published a new project, using 3W RGB LEDs and a normal keypad as interface. This time I made available all the specifications including the code that is loaded into the micro-processor (Arduino Pro-Mini) and detailed instructions on critical parts of the project. I made it for photographers with no experience in making printed circuit boards, micro-processors, soldering, etc. As part of the project there is also a control box that works as a timer and mixer for the RBG colors. It allows the use of multi grade paper by balancing the proportions of green and blue, like the MG filters or color heads do. I am sharing this as freeware.

Here is a link to a video presenting the project:

You are a genius. I'm not sure I'm ready to start on this. I have too much equipment already. Thanks for sharing this. Best Regards Mike

 

[Neal]

Nicely done!