Emulating Technicolor w/ 120

[asteroid_death]

Hi all.

I have a pin-up themed studio shoot coming up and I really want to try to get a technicolor look with my portraits.

I've had good experiences in the past shooting similar subject matter on kodak 35mm slide film, but what are my options with 120?

I'm definitely leaning towards slides, having shot plenty of 120 portra/ektar, I already know it doesn't have that look, so I'm thinking about trying velvia/provia with a daylight filter and a strobe. Has anyone done this? I really want to get saturated colors without a cast. My only other option seems to be purchasing expired ektachrome or t64 and taking a chance with that. Any ideas?

 

[benjiboy]

If you are shooting Fuji Velvia/ Provia in strobe lighting no filtration is necessary according to my experience and the Fuji film product sheet because the colour temperature of strobe is so similar to the daylight these films are balanced for.

 

[Fixcinater]

I'd try to find some Astia and go up in format, 645 won't give that super smooth tonal gradation like LF or the bigger MF formats can.

I think a local shop to me has some 100G if you would be interested, but I don't know what that looks like under strobes.

Lastly, Ms. Hepburn looks wonderful on any film but the lighting on that frame is superb.

 

[darkosaric]

Lastly, Ms. Hepburn looks wonderful on any film but the lighting on that frame is superb.

Ms. Hepburn: regarded by some to be the most naturally beautiful woman of all time (from wikipedia).

Beside film choices I think big part is also make up, lightning and clothes.

 

[ewernotme]

Yeah, I'd say Velvia would do a good job as it works well with heavy saturation that Technicolor has.

 

[Jim Noel]

Technicolor was a look unlike any other. Maybe in 6000 years digital will be able to imitate it. I wonder if any single strip film can.

I agree. Technicolor was made with separations similar to a dye transfer print,and then transferred to a film backing.

 

[StoneNYC]

I think Velvia100 and skin tone isn't the first choice, Provia100f is still overly saturated but much more in tune with natural skin tone.

You should probably pick up a roll of both and test both.

The example however is not saturated at all in comparison to the fuji films.

You really don't have much choice currently, in a year perhaps the FILM Ferrania's new E-6 will be out and that may come closer.

Good luck!

PS a lot of this look wee the pastille pallet available at the time, clothing and backdrops and props that fit that color pallet aren't as common now.

 

[DanielStone]

I'd go with Ektar 100, and rate it at ASA of 80. Slide film is great, but if you're not within 1/3 stop of your intended highlight density, it can make it hard to regain a balanced exposure, or pull highlight detail "in", even with scanning.

Getting your light ratios correct will be the best start, then the extra dynamic range of color negative film will aid in nailing your exposures the first time. Some (slight) overexposure with Ektar is perfectly fine, it'll help keep the shadows(again remember lighting ratios) from getting crushed to the point of no return.

Velvia (both 50 and 100) tend to lead towards the magentas, I've found. Skin can take on a pinkish/reddish hue, and when not done exactly right, can make skin look really red.

Dean Collins explains it really well here:

[video=youtube_share;TsbGJoX8KsA]http://youtu.be/TsbGJoX8KsA[/video]

I've used this technique on photo sets over the past few years of assisting. Working quickly is imperative in most cases, since jobs are shorter, and clients want to "see it now". Being flexible, and having FULL control of your technique also makes you look good to those around you

 

[StoneNYC]

I'd go with Ektar 100, and rate it at ASA of 80. Slide film is great, but if you're not within 1/3 stop of your intended highlight density, it can make it hard to regain a balanced exposure, or pull highlight detail "in", even with scanning.

Getting your light ratios correct will be the best start, then the extra dynamic range of color negative film will aid in nailing your exposures the first time. Some (slight) overexposure with Ektar is perfectly fine, it'll help keep the shadows(again remember lighting ratios) from getting crushed to the point of no return.

Velvia (both 50 and 100) tend to lead towards the magentas, I've found. Skin can take on a pinkish/reddish hue, and when not done exactly right, can make skin look really red.

Dean Collins explains it really well here:

[video=youtube_share;TsbGJoX8KsA]http://youtu.be/TsbGJoX8KsA[/video]

I've used this technique on photo sets over the past few years of assisting. Working quickly is imperative in most cases, since jobs are shorter, and clients want to "see it now". Being flexible, and having FULL control of your technique also makes you look good to those around you

Funny I've found Ektar100 to behave very much the same way as Velvia with the red skin tones, hence why I suggest using Provia100f

The OP will have to test, but there's no way you'll get the technicolor look with Ektar100 its too "tin-y" looking, I can't explain what I mean, but any good photographer when shooting in studio should have no problem exposing slide film properly, the reports of difficulty shooting slide film are way overboard from reality from my experience. Slide film is just not that hard...

 

[asteroid_death]

Thanks everyone!!!

I think I will do Ektar after all. I think I'll also do Velvia 100 and maybe some expired ektachrome too.

 

[StoneNYC]

Thanks everyone!!!

I think I will do Ektar after all. I think I'll also do Velvia 100 and maybe some expired ektachrome too.

Ok well, if you decide to do Velvia and don't like it, try Provia before giving up

 

[asteroid_death]

Ok well, if you decide to do Velvia and don't like it, try Provia before giving up

I shoot provia on 35 and although I like it a lot, I've never noticed that it had the kind of saturation i'm going for. It's very sharp but the colors are more 'modern'.

I found a couple of ektar 120 studio portraits on flickr that looked very similar to that photo of hepburn; very saturated flat pastel colors. The studio lighting has a been impact on the look, but the print films don't have the translucency in the highlights that reversal film has. I agree that the sensitivity of slide film is often exaggerated. It is not hard to meter at all, and even when the highlights blow out it looks way better than digital.

Here is a shot on elite chrome 100 that I xpro'd. I know that elite chrome is just rebranded ektachrome and it comes close to what I'm going for, but I have no idea if 120 ektachrome will yield the same or even similar results, and of course it would also be expired, but I'm going to try it.

BTW I never give up.

 

[StoneNYC]

I shoot provia on 35 and although I like it a lot, I've never noticed that it had the kind of saturation i'm going for. It's very sharp but the colors are more 'modern'.

I found a couple of ektar 120 studio portraits on flickr that looked very similar to that photo of hepburn; very saturated flat pastel colors. The studio lighting has a been impact on the look, but the print films don't have the translucency in the highlights that reversal film has. I agree that the sensitivity of slide film is often exaggerated. It is not hard to meter at all, and even when the highlights blow out it looks way better than digital.

Here is a shot on elite chrome 100 that I xpro'd. I know that elite chrome is just rebranded ektachrome and it comes close to what I'm going for, but I have no idea if 120 ektachrome will yield the same or even similar results, and of course it would also be expired, but I'm going to try it.

BTW I never give up.

Oh I never thought of cross processing, I've seen some Provia100f cross processed that looked really good actually, I forgot about that, but I can see your point about the modern thing.

Well, I have also not shot a lot of Ektar100 and certainly not in studio, so I could be wrong, good luck!

 

[ewernotme]

Best of luck with the shooting!