Emofin according to MSDS? (recipe?)

[Athiril]

Trying to approximate an Emofin-like recipe.

According to the MSDS, Emofin is:

Part A
25-50% Aminophenol
5-10% sodium metabisulphite


Part B
>90% Sodium Sulphite


Nice and simple, so I assume thats all anhydronous powder.. so there are some details missing which would help..

Anyone know what quantities Emofin ships in (part A and part B in grams) and how many litres that mixes up to?



Or if there is an established Emofin-like recipe here on apug somewhere? I tried searching but hard to sift through all the generic questions so I hit up the MSDS

 

[Alan Johnson]

There's this:
www.apug.org/forums/forum37/59223-microdol-x-replacement-18.html
See post 172 and Bill Troop's comment post 182.
I have never seen a comparison of Emofin and Diafine but because of the PPD in Emofin I daresay home brewers might prefer to mix one of the Diafine type formulae on the net.

 

[gainer]

There's this:
www.apug.org/forums/forum37/59223-microdol-x-replacement-18.html
See post 172 and Bill Troop's comment post 182.
I have never seen a comparison of Emofin and Diafine but because of the PPD in Emofin I daresay home brewers might prefer to mix one of the Diafine type formulae on the net.

I think a comparison with Rodinal would be more in order. Here is a recipe for EX Rodinal:

Water...................................400 ml
sodium sulfite, anh..............85 grams
sodium hydroxide................13.8 grams or 19.3 grams of potassium hydroxide.
p-aminophenol.....................40 grams
Dissolve the sulfite and the hydroxide, then add the p-aminophenol.
Water to make 500 ml.

 

[gainer]

EX should have been EZ. Also, it's a single part developer to be mixed with water as if it were commercial Rodinal.

 

[Alan Johnson]

Emofin and Diafine are both 2 bath developers giving a film speed increase.
For example I get EI=160 sun/shade,average metering, with Emofin and Delta 100.
I dont think Rodinal quite manages this.
If you can make a speed increasing developer with p-aminophenol,that's news.

 

[gainer]

IIRC, we use the paraminophenol or 4-aminophenol, in prefrence to the other two. I see no reference to just plain aminophenol in the CRC handbook. The position of the amino group is important. Merely specifying aminophenol would imply that a mixture would be OK.

I would not count on the numbers in the MSDS for a recipe. You could look up the MSDS for Rodinal and see what you get.

Have you tried Rodinal as a stand developer? I think that method would come closer to what you might expect from a two-bath.

 

[Athiril]

Yeah I use 1+100 Rodinal as a stand developer for 1 hour, its the only stand developer that doesnt leave streaks on the film and develops evenly for me, though I think that may leave a rough grain on the 16mm (motion picture) I intend on using it with, yes I've tried the ascorbate/borax additives to Rodinal, mixed up a batch, tried it in stand, no longer developers evenly and leaves streaks acros the sprocket holes.

Though I think that may not be such an issue with 16mm as the backside of the film will be stuck flat against another surface, only emulsion side will be in free moving solution.



I've mixed 'Diafine' from a recipe I found qouted on here, it works well, even as a first developer for a colour neg process, which is what


Thanks Alan Johnson, I actually have some CD-2 on the way.


I'd like something economic for my 16mm processor design, which will use 3.3 litres per 100ft, so its a highly dilute developer, re-usable 2-bath, or possibly split development with something like rodinal/ascorbate, or plain ascorbate, before a 1+100 stand for 30 minutes or something.

I tried mixing up a CD-3 based 2-bath, up to 40g/L from using part B of my Kodak E-6 Colour Dev Replenisher, contrast was low and was quite thin, not much development took place, so I gave that up, but bath A pH was acidic, which may have been a mistake compared to other 2 bath designs.

It doesn't matter if its b&w or colour developing (ppd, CD-2, CD-3 etc), as I can get a colour neg from a b&w neg by fixing, bleaching and colour developing after, which has worked extremely well for me thus far, so just pretend we're talking about b&w methods and techniques here

What I'm after, is fine grain, compensating, economy of developer, I dont care about speed increasing, and can sacrifice speed even to achieve what I need. I have most developers apart from amidol, and metol, I can get metol if I have too, but it'll come from the UK as its ridiculously expensive here.