Ektascan X-ray Film and Hardeners

[davido]

I have started using Kodak Ektascan B/RA 8x10 sheet film. After trying a few different ways of processing, I've settled on BTZS tubes, which are producing very nice even negs. However, Ektascan is an x-ray film and is consequently pretty soft while wet, and I'm getting scratches.
I've tried Profession Kodak fixer (which includes hardener) and it's simply not cutting it. I've read that glutaraldehyde is typically used for x-ray film, but I'm hesitant to use it, as my darkroom is shared space and I'm concerned with the fumes. It seems that my only other choice is chrome alum? I have purchased some and tried it as a pre-hardener (before developing) but it didn't work. However, I recently came across some info that you supposed to let chrome alum age for a week or so before use?
For those who use x-ray sheet film, what hardener do you use? I'm going to continue experimenting with the chrome alum, but I would appreciate hearing how others have dealt with x-ray sheet film and scratching.
Thanks.
David

 

[MattKrull]

I have started using Kodak Ektascan B/RA 8x10 sheet film. After trying a few different ways of processing, I've settled on BTZS tubes, which are producing very nice even negs. However, Ektascan is an x-ray film and is consequently pretty soft while wet, and I'm getting scratches. I've tried Profession Kodak fixer (which includes hardener) and it's simply not cutting it. I've read that glutaraldehyde is typically used for x-ray film, but I'm hesitant to use it, as my darkroom is shared space and I'm concerned with the fumes. It seems that my only other choice is chrome alum? I have purchased some and tried it as a pre-hardener (before developing) but it didn't work. However, I recently came across some info that you supposed to let chrome alum age for a week or so before use? For those who use x-ray sheet film, what hardener do you use? I'm going to continue experimenting with the chrome alum, but I would appreciate hearing how others have dealt with x-ray sheet film and scratching.Thanks.David

Do you know where in the process you are getting scratches? I'm using Ilford Rapid fix (non hardening) and have not had problems (yet) with scratches. BUT, part of that may be that once the negative is dry, I sleeve it in an 8x10 negative sleeve. When I'm contact printing, I leave it in the sleeve (this doesn't seem to degrade quality in any meaningful way).

 

[Jim Noel]

I use the same film and don't get scratches.
I develop in trays and use Ilford Rapid Fix.
I believe most people get scratches on this, and other films, while handling when loading or unloading holders, and especially when loading and unloading tubes of various types. Once the film is dry it appears to be as resistant to scratches as other sheet films.
I have read some posts indicating it is more likely to scratch than panchromatic films because it is orthochromatic - a ridiculous thought.

 

[Andrew O'Neill]

No hardener. I have been using the same film and have developed it BTZS tubes and trays without scratching issues. My developer is Pyrocat-HD. I tried it in Blazinal, and it came out fine. Have you tried it in a tray?

 

[juan]

I use Pyrocat developer in part because the developer hardens the emulsion.
Juan

 

[Alan9940]

I use whatever rapid fix I have on hand (no hardener) and process on my Jobo. The only single time I had a scratch is when my finger nail slipped when pulling the film out of the drum.

Kind regards,
Alan

 

[davido]

Thanks guys.
I've processed in my Jobo and in deep tanks. But I'm getting the most even results in the tubes. Although, I wasn't getting scratches with the other processes. I also process with Pyrocat 2:2:100 (for alt process). I'm guessing that the scratches are from removing the film at the end? I have even been filling up the the tube with wash water and then slowly sliding them out. My guess is the the edges of the film are rubbing against the opposite side of the film emulsion as the film is pulled out the opening?
The results are so much more even with the tubes, I don't want to go back. I'll try the chrome alum again this weekend. Probably between the water stop and the fixer.

david

 

[davido]

no way to trays

No hardener. I have been using the same film and have developed it BTZS tubes and trays without scratching issues. My developer is Pyrocat-HD. I tried it in Blazinal, and it came out fine. Have you tried it in a tray?

Andrew, I processed lith film in trays for a few years - absolutely exasperating! I'm sure the Ektascan wouldn't be as bad but the lith had such over-the-top edge effects (over developed edges from the agitating waves). I even tried using brush developing - that will drive you over the edge! The tubes wouldn't work for lith though - I hope I never go back to that evil film.
I used Blazinal for the tank developing and it worked fine.

david

 

[Fr. Mark]

Make make bigger tubes from pvc drain pipe and fittings so film ends don't overlap?

 

[davido]

I had never actually tried to purposely scratch this film, so tried on a piece of scrap the other day and it's ridiculously soft when wet! The chrome alum did pretty much nothing! Even soaking for ten minutes. I tried before developing and after a water stop and still scratch marks. I'm going to improve my ventilation system and try using Glutaraldehyde, which is recommended for xray film.
It's fairly nasty stuff but not as bad as formalin (formaldehyde). Will use with ventilation fan and a mask.