I think the same, Michael... And I'll test FX-39 too, which works great with TMY for mild pushing, but I have no TMX right now, so I'll have to wait. No Across or D100 right now either, so I'll read for some days.Then I suppose you might as well choose the finest grained ISO 100 film. This would be TMX (or Fuji Acros). I’d recommend TMX in this case because its characteristic curve has lower highlight contrast than Acros, which might be easier to deal with if you overdevelop. XTOL or D-76/ID-11.
Same thinking here, Paul... Thank you!Kodak's Tmax 100 data sheets states that a one stop push does not require any additional time, but as you shoot in soft overcast lighting you might want to give additional 20% to boost contrast. In terms of developers, considering how fine grain Tmax 100 or Delta 100 is, you use Rodinal, I've used Acufine in the past along with HC 110, D76 ought to be good.
For example, it is ok to shoot a 400 film at 200 and develop it as if for 800.
400 @ 200 = 1 stop over exposure
200 dev @ 800 = 2 stop under developed
Wouldn't that leave you with negatives that are 1 stop under developed?
I'm so confused.
If you develop something to accommodate a higher EI, you increase the development ("push" = increase contrast).400 @ 200 = 1 stop over exposure
200 dev @ 800 = 2 stop under developed
Wouldn't that leave you with negatives that are 1 stop under developed?
I'm so confused.
Andrew, I think Bill was talking about expanding contrast for soft light scenes, but without underexposing.
Andrew, I think Bill was talking about expanding contrast for soft light scenes, but without underexposing. That's valid, of course: even the best option, as Matt has also pointed in the past. It's the need to stop down and work with prefocusing what makes us underexpose and push a bit.
Same here, HP5+ is too soft, too fast and too clean for EI400 sometimes. Overdevelopment rises its middle grays easily.Got it, thank you! Usually I don't give less exposure when only slight increase in contrast is desired...but for me that depends on the film, and conventional developer. For HP5, I always give a third stop less when N+1 development is anticipated. And when less contrast is desired, slightly more exposure, and less development time.
Got it, thank you! Usually I don't give less exposure when only slight increase in contrast is desired...but for me that depends on the film, and conventional developer. For HP5, I always give a third stop less when N+1 development is anticipated. And when less contrast is desired, slightly more exposure, and less development time.
I don't understand how y'all make these decisions when a roll of film contains so many different lighting scenarios.
.....and bang off the whole roll.
Because in each of those lighting scenarios, when I have a camera with Tri-X and a camera with HP5+, the same scene is recorded differently by both films, and sometimes one of those two films is preferred, and depending on their curves, for a certain type of scene contrast we prefer one of them and that means exposing it both the way the scene says with its light AND the way that film's curve says, which mostly means to know what will happen to the shadows, the middle grays and the highlights, and different films with different curves require slightly different exposure for that tonal control.I don't understand how y'all make these decisions when a roll of film contains so many different lighting scenarios.
You got good answers, that's right. It's hard for me (I don't like talking about it backwards) to translate how to develop in terms of the speed you shot the film at. Sorry I made it confusing.Ok, that makes sense.
Do you at least have a cigarette after?
We don't.I don't understand how y'all make these decisions when a roll of film contains so many different lighting scenarios.
very true;when one is after more film sensitivity, one is always better off going for a higher-sensitivity film than pushing a low- sensitivity filmI would simply use TMY-2 at EI 400 and XTOL or D-76/ID-11. The only finer grained films than TMY-2 are basically TMX and Fuji Acros, but all bets are off with respect to image structure quality when overdeveloping (pushing).
You get a feel for what the light was like for a roll, and if you wrote it down somewhere, you'll know what might work for it (or at least would be right for the important shots on the roll).I don't understand how y'all make these decisions when a roll of film contains so many different lighting scenarios.
Dear Ralph,very true;when one is after more film sensitivity, one is always better off going for a higher-sensitivity film than pushing a low- sensitivity film
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