Efke

[chrisofwlp]

any thoughts?

i recently purchased some iso 25 and had some trouble with the recomended development time. after all was said and done i need to use d-76 straight for 13 minutes when the recomended time is 5.5-6. the tonal range and grain structure was AMAZING!!! definatly a thumbs up.

 

[Markok765]

Rodinal, Beautiful film, prone to scratches

 

[Lee L]

Chris,

Welcome to APUG.

I see you've just recently joined. Try searching on Efke 25 with the Search box at the upper right of the page. You'll get a number of thoughts on Efke 25 that have already been posted in 455 separate threads. I'm not trying to be glib, just pointing to a resource that you might not have tried.

Have you got more specific questions?

Lee

 

[noseoil]

Chris, with that amount of time, it should have been completely toasted (about 5 stops over-developed). What asa did you use? What type of light did you have? What subject matter? Can you post an image?

There are a lot of people here who use a very dilute developer (HC110, Rodinal, Pyrocat-hd) and longer times, because this film reacts so violently to over development and has such tight grain. Are you sure you didn't get the 50 or 100? tim

 

[Markok765]

Try rodial stand dev 1:200 for 2 hours

 

[chrisofwlp]

Chris, with that amount of time, it should have been completely toasted (about 5 stops over-developed). What asa did you use? What type of light did you have? What subject matter? Can you post an image?

There are a lot of people here who use a very dilute developer (HC110, Rodinal, Pyrocat-hd) and longer times, because this film reacts so violently to over development and has such tight grain. Are you sure you didn't get the 50 or 100? tim

i exposed the film at iso 25, my profile pic should sufice.

 

[Keith Tapscott.]

any thoughts?

i recently purchased some iso 25 and had some trouble with the recomended development time. after all was said and done i need to use d-76 straight for 13 minutes when the recomended time is 5.5-6. the tonal range and grain structure was AMAZING!!! definatly a thumbs up.

Manufacturers development times are starting points and should be adjusted to yield the contrast you need for your own unique working practice and personal preference.
Contrary to popular belief, some photographers find they need more development than the manufacturers recommend with certain film types.
Looks like you found a time that suits you.

 

[Roger Hicks]

Contrary to popular belief, some photographers find they need more development than the manufacturers recommend with certain film types.

YES!

The 'underdevelopment Mafia' have far too much of a stranglehold.

My STARTING point nowadays is 10% above the manufacturers' recommended times, and that's with generous exposure. This is for negs that print well on grade 2-1/2, and I'm already using contrasty (but very low flare) non-SLR lenses for Leicas, Alpas and LF.

Some Zone Puritans will immediately conclude that I am ignorant, incompetent, etc. Tough. You are absolutely spot on. Many need less: a few need more.

Cheers,

R. (at Plymouth College 1961-69, now in France: www.rogerandfrances.com)

 

[Markok765]

Is it ok to dev tri-x in d761+1 for 14 min? tri-x is the only film i have now

 

[Keith Tapscott.]

Is it ok to dev tri-x in d761+1 for 14 min? tri-x is the only film i have now

All I am saying is that you should develop your film to the desired contrast that you need for your own working system. If you need more contrast, you increase the development until you get the contrast you need. If you need less contrast, you reduce it in small increments until you find your `ideal` contrast level. There is no such thing as a correct development time that suits every individuals needs or preferences, you fine-tune it suit yourself.

 

[Keith Tapscott.]

R. (at Plymouth College 1961-69, now in France: www.rogerandfrances.com)[/QUOTE]
Yes, I know that place. Also plymouth Art Centre near Bretonside.
cheers.

 

[tim atherton]

BTW - not sure how it compares for the miniature films, but I use Pyrocat-HD at 2+2+100 for 10min @20c with a 5 min presoak and continuous rotation in a job for Efke 25 4x5 and 8x10 and get gorgeous negs....

 

[Tom Hoskinson]

BTW - not sure how it compares for the miniature films, but I use Pyrocat-HD at 2+2+100 for 10min @20c with a 5 min presoak and continuous rotation in a job for Efke 25 4x5 and 8x10 and get gorgeous negs....

Tim, this Pyrocat-HD method also works fine for me with 35mm Efke 25 and 35mm Kodak TMax 100.

I also got excellent results with these same films with 1+1+100 Pyrocat-P for 16 minutes at 21C with minimal agitation. I always use a 5 min. presoak with all the Pyrocat developers.

 

[Saganich]

My experience with the efke 25 is when shooting at ASA 25 and souping in a sulfite developer like D76, you will loose about a full stop. If your a light agitator then you will loose even more. There are alot of variables. Don't worry about your method, just keep it the same and it will all come together. This will be the case for each different film you try, btw.
Chris