Efke R50 Pull

ChrisW · Aug 25, 2006

Brain fade here. I mistakenly shot R50 (120) using ISO 25. If I normally develop R25, shot at 25, in DD-X at 9 minutes, how do I calculate a pull of 50 to 25? Should I halve the 9 minutes to 4.5? That might be too short a development period.

Thanks,
Chris

Flotsam · Aug 25, 2006

ChrisW said:
Brain fade here. I mistakenly shot R50 (120) using ISO 25. If I normally develop R25, shot at 25, in DD-X at 9 minutes, how do I calculate a pull of 50 to 25? Should I halve the 9 minutes to 4.5? That might be too short a development period.

Thanks,
Chris

NO!
Cutting the time by 20% is often suggested for N-1 tests but remember, better to be a bit over than under.

I love R50. Just ordered more from J&C

Rolleiflexible · Aug 25, 2006

Chris, I've not used Efke, but based on my experience with Tri-X and Bergger 200 roll films, I would suggest that you process it according to your usual recipe. Unless there is something odd in the way Efke takes the light, one stop overexposure won't hurt a thing. In fact, you might find that you get better shadow detail by having shot it at EI 25. I routinely expose TX400 at EI 200, and Bergger 200 at EI 80, for that reason.

Sanders

ChrisW · Aug 25, 2006

Thanks to both of you for the rapid response. I have 5 rolls, so I'll heed both pieces of advice.

This forum is great. I certainly take more than I contribute, but if someone posts an inquiry regarding the proper pairing of wine with tacos, I'm the man.

Flotsam · Aug 25, 2006

ChrisW said:
Thanks to both of you for the rapid response. I have 5 rolls, so I'll heed both pieces of advice.

Then definitely do a test. Unless you are very concerned about your highlights, you may want to go with little or even no compensation.

Gerald Koch · Aug 25, 2006

Use your regular processing time for this film. Your negatives will be a bit denser than usual but it's easy just to "print through". In fact, many photographers regularly shoot at less than box speed. If you attempt to adjust the density by changing the development time you will run into contrast problems.

P C Headland · Aug 25, 2006

IIRC the literature for both the Efke 25 and 50 both say "do not overexpose", so I'd recommend a slight reduction in development time. I always shoot the R25 at 25 or slightly higher.

Still, you have only overexposed it by at most one stop. What sort of scenes were they? If the shots are likely to have lots of shadow and no highlights, develop as per normal, if there are lots of highlights and you're less worried about shadow, cut the development time a tad.

ChrisW · Aug 25, 2006

P C Headland said:
Still, you have only overexposed it by at most one stop. What sort of scenes were they? If the shots are likely to have lots of shadow and no highlights, develop as per normal, if there are lots of highlights and you're less worried about shadow, cut the development time a tad.

The five rolls of R50 were secretly planted in a batch of what was supposed to be all R25. I choose to blame my 9-month old son. The subjects and scenes are wildly varied, and, of course, if I had marked the exposed rolls, I would have noticed the R50 markings.

noseoil · Aug 26, 2006

Chris, I generally rate Efke 25 at 12. This tends to push the shadows up off the toe and doesn't hurt highlights, unless the contrast is too great. I would be more concerned with working out development times for unusual lighting scenes (full overcast vs. full sun on the same roll) than worrying about a bit of overexposure. My usual development now tends to be with a very dilute developer, to allow a bigger window for time. With full strength fast developers, times can be very short. tim

Efke R50 Pull

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