Efke/Adox-dev info request

Dave Wooten · Jun 27, 2006

I have just started a project using Adox 100, exposed at 50...I would like to request,

1. Favorite dev combinations, and times ...

Note: I am unable to get 68 degree water temp here in Vegas but can use distilled water and maintain a room temp of 75 degrees...J and C charts give times and temps etc for 68 degrees..these first negs will be tray developed one at a time....14 x 17...

2. I will need to print some negs, silver contact, (not AZO) and others I wish to do Palladium...

As always thanks in advance...I would like to begin developing this week as I have finished several exposures...

Dave in Vegas

David A. Goldfarb · Jun 27, 2006

My combos for Efke PL100 are (all times at 68 deg F)--

For enlargement, EI 50, ABC Pyro 1+1+1+12, 6 min. (I'm still tweaking this a bit, so consider that a starting point), agitate every 15 sec. (N) [might be a good starting point for contacts on enlarging paper]

For Azo, as above, 1+1+1+7 (maybe try 20% longer for pt/pd).

For more speed, enlargement on grade 2 or 3, EI 200, Acufine, 4 min., agitate every 30 sec.

I've also tried EI 200, Rodinal 1+50, 14 min., agitate every 30 sec. Results are grainier, but not bad for contact prints. 14 min. development time means more wet handling, and the film is soft, so that's enough reason for me to prefer the other combos that I use more regularly.

Tom Hoskinson · Jun 27, 2006

My favorite developer for Efke PL100 is Pyrocat HD. For Azo contact printing I use the 1+1+100 dilution and presoak the film for 2 - 5 minutes.

I assume that your solutions are all stabilized at your room temperature of 75 degrees F.

For Pyrocat-HD diluted 1+1+100 (same for Pyrocat-P and MC): A starting time for Tray development at 75 F with intermittent agitation (Lifting alternate corners of the tray every 15 - 20 seconds) would be 7 to 8 minutes.

Dave Wooten · Jun 27, 2006

Thanks Dave and Tom,

Yes my dev will be stabilized at 75 degrees, I will keep jugs of water at room temp.....today my tap water on the cold side is over 100 degrees!

David A. Goldfarb · Jun 27, 2006

When I can't get 68 deg or when I'm using Acufine at room temperature, I just measure the temperature and use the conversion table in the back of Steve Anchell's _The Darkroom Cookbook_.

Tom Hoskinson · Jun 27, 2006

David A. Goldfarb said:
When I can't get 68 deg or when I'm using Acufine at room temperature, I just measure the temperature and use the conversion table in the back of Steve Anchell's _The Darkroom Cookbook_.

I have the Arhennius chemical reaction rate equation programmed into my HP42s calculator. I obtained a Pyrocat/Efke activation energy by curve fitting Efke/Pyrocat develpment time/temperature data.

Alicouscous · Jun 27, 2006

Why do you expose this film to 50 asa ??
This film film must not be overexposed !
I hope you'll have good results, i'm waiting for your feedback here.

sanking · Jun 27, 2006

Alicouscous said:
Why do you expose this film to 50 asa ??
This film film must not be overexposed !
I hope you'll have good results, i'm waiting for your feedback here.

In my experiene Efke PL100 has full emulsion speed and I would rate it at an EI of 100 or even 150 if developing for Pt./Pd.

However, if developing for AZO rating at EI 50 is not a bad idea because this will push more of the curve up on the stright line sectin. Efke, at least in the developers I have tested it with, has a very long toe, quite similar to TRI-X 320, and overexposure will often resuslt in better shadow separation.

Sandy King

Dave Wooten · Jun 27, 2006

Thanks Sandy,

So for those negs exposed at 50 if I wish to print in Platinum, I should now shorten development?

Donald Miller · Jun 27, 2006

For enlarging I expose Efke Pl 100 at EI 50---SBR7 (N Development 9 minutes at 75 degrees) , EI 80---SBR 6 (N+1 appr. 12 minutes at 75 degrees), EI 100---SBR 5 (N+ 1/12-2 for 20 minutes at 75 degrees) This is with Pyrocat HD 1-1-100 and for printing with a point light source condenser enlarger. My densitometric tests indicate a DR of 1.25- 1.30 (measured through the blue channel) at these times and dilutions. I prefer a little higher DR then most people who follow the A A numbers. The reason is that my local contrast is much improved...and I find my overall contrast to be manageable.

My times for Azo back when I used it, (should get you in the ball park for Pt-pd.) were all for minimal agitation and were 24 --38, and 58 minutes (for SBR or 7-6-5 respectively) to arrive at a DR of 1.65 to 1.70---measured with Xrite densitometer through the blue channel (again with Pyrocat HD at 1-1-150 dilution). The EI's that I use are consistantly the same for both processes.

Don't you just love living in the desert this time of year? I have found the Zone VI compensating timer on a tempered water bath holds things pretty well in line.

All developing done in BTZS type tubes.

Donald Miller · Jun 27, 2006

Dave Wooten said:
Thanks Sandy,

So for those negs exposed at 50 if I wish to print in Platinum, I should now shorten development?

I hope that Sandy doesn't mind my responding here.

No, the density range will remain the pretty much the same with one stop of exposure difference provided the development times remain the same.

rjs003 · Jun 27, 2006

I must be missing something on the temp. thing. If you can't 68F water what is wrong with using ice cubes to get you to where you want to be with the temp.?

Donald Miller · Jun 27, 2006

rjs003 said:
I must be missing something on the temp. thing. If you can't 68F water what is wrong with using ice cubes to get you to where you want to be with the temp.?

That is what I do with my tempered water bath for the BTZS type tubes. The compensating timer compensates for any temperature drift in the bath.

David A. Goldfarb · Jun 27, 2006

rjs003 said:
I must be missing something on the temp. thing. If you can't 68F water what is wrong with using ice cubes to get you to where you want to be with the temp.?

Nothing, but it's not obviously necessary to do so. Also, if you can't count on 68-degree wash water, then it might be better to process at the wash temperature to avoid large temperature shifts that might cause reticulation.

Dave Wooten · Jun 27, 2006

David A. Goldfarb said:
Nothing, but it's not obviously necessary to do so. Also, if you can't count on 68-degree wash water, then it might be better to process at the wash temperature to avoid large temperature shifts that might cause reticulation.

Correct, and I haven't yet tried the tubes but plan to, also my tap water is closer to 100 degrees....I am also considering a chiller....but that is in the future, possibly.

juan · Jun 27, 2006

Here in Florida my wash water comes from the pipe at 80F. I tried all kinds of means to lower processing temperature to something close to 68 and suffered uneven development and emulsion problems because of it. I came to the conclusion that my film was sitting in a film holder at 90-95F, and that if I dunked it in 68F developer or pre-wash, then put it in the next solution that had by then warmed to 75, and the next to 80, I was causing physical stress to the emulsion.

I gave in to the temperature and adjusted my dilution and time. My times at 80 are within a minute or so of Donald's, so I'd recommend following what he has suggested - and don't worry about the temperature. I do, however, process the soft Efke film one sheet at a time. I have not been able to avoid scratches when using the shuffle method.
juan

Willie Jan · Jun 28, 2006

Alicouscous said:
Why do you expose this film to 50 asa ??
This film film must not be overexposed !
I hope you'll have good results, i'm waiting for your feedback here.

when using pyrocat maybe not, but for instance when using rodinal you will have to expose it at 50 for the real speed.

20 degrees celcius.
Rodinal 1+50, 12 minutes, agitation first minute, after that each 30 sec.

By the way, you will have to test each batch for the EI, pre-last batch i got it was more towards 25, batch retrieved last week was around 50.

Monophoto · Jun 28, 2006

I've just started experimenting with efke 100. I did a film speed test that indicated that with my equipment, the ei needs to be 50, but that is a personalized number and does not apply to everyone.

The few sheets I've processed so far have given me good negatives in HC110, dilution H, for 11 minutes at 20degC. I also tried one sheet in Rodinal 1:100 for one hour with extreme minimal agitation that looks pretty good.

Efke/Adox-dev info request

Dave Wooten

David A. Goldfarb

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Tom Hoskinson

Dave Wooten

David A. Goldfarb

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Tom Hoskinson

Alicouscous

sanking

Dave Wooten

Donald Miller

Donald Miller

rjs003

Donald Miller

David A. Goldfarb

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Dave Wooten

juan

Willie Jan

Monophoto

Efke/Adox-dev info request

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