Efke 25 development

[tony lockerbie]

I have just purchased a 50 sheet box of Efke 25 in 5x4 and would appreciate some exposure and development info. I tried the massive dev. chart and it only lists 35mm and 120 times. Is the sheet film the same? Some people recommend using the film at iso 50. I will be using either ID11 1:1 or Rodinal so some idea of times/ exposure index would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks,
Tony.

 

[tac]

This from the Digitaltruth site for efke 25 4x5:

Do NOT over-expose Efke Emulsions! This film is not recommended for pull processing. Treat the wet emulsion with extreme care. We recommend the use of hardener in the stop bath or fixer. Never use a stop-bath with a higher concentration than 2% -- in fact, we recommend the use of plain water in place of a stop bath. Efke sheet films are coated on a polyester base (175 microns plus coating). If exposed to film's regular speed of ISO 25, the following developing times apply: Kodak D76/ID-11 = 6 Minutes If ISO 25 film is exposed to ISO 50 for increased speed and optimum differentiation of highlights, the following developing times apply: Kodak D76/ID-11 = 8-9 minutes.

 

[titrisol]

I would assume it to be similar to 120. I found it to work fine as 25 with rich shadow detail.

IMHO Rodinal 1+100 for ~10 minutes works better since the contrast is very easy to blow. Grain is inexistent so ID11 1+1 or 1+3 could also be used to get times "manageable" .

 

[tony lockerbie]

Thank you kindly for that info. I think that I will try rodinal at 1:100 for starters.
Tony

 

[Aurelien]

You forget an essential information: temperature !!!

 

[P C Headland]

I shoot Efke 25 and 100 at box speed.

I treat the sheet film the same as 120 film, assuming the same development technique. So, for inversion (5 inversions at the start of each minute for the first three minutes, then one inversion every three minutes thereafter) I develop in Rodinal 1+100 for 17 minutes at 20C

For stand development, agitate gently for the first minute, then stand for one hour.

For development in the Orbital processor (continuous agitation), I've used PC-TEA 1+50 for 8 minutes at 20C. My PC-TEA times are based on D76 1+1 so that could be a good guide for ID11.

Water stop, then fix as usual.

I have accidentally shot this at 100, at got excellent results - I just developed it a little longer (25 minutes in Rodinal 1+100 if I recall correctly).

 

[Tom Hoskinson]

I have just purchased a 50 sheet box of Efke 25 in 5x4 and would appreciate some exposure and development info. I tried the massive dev. chart and it only lists 35mm and 120 times. Is the sheet film the same? Some people recommend using the film at iso 50. I will be using either ID11 1:1 or Rodinal so some idea of times/ exposure index would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks,
Tony.

Tony, I rate Efke 25 sheet film at an Effective Film Speed of 25 and develop it semi-stand in either Pyrocat-HD (or in Pyrocat M-C) diluted 1+1+100 for 16 minutes at 70F. I presoak for 2-5 minutes in 70F water.

I rate and develop Efke 25 35mm and 120 rollfilm the same way.

 

[Jim Noel]

I don't know where all the fear of scratching this film comes from. I use it in sizes from 4x5 to 7x17 and don't have a scratch yet. Careful handling is the answer. Yes, I sometimes develop in trays and at other times in a Jobo. I don't use a hardener.

 

[Rolleijoe]

Over on Flickr Dorothy (aka luvdatrodinal) regularly shoots Efke 25 @ EI 12 in Rodinal 1:100 semi-stand for an hour. While I haven't loaded my 4x5 Efke 25 yet, I've been processing Rodinal 1:50 10-11min (depending on subject contrast) and have been very happy with the results.

Stick with Rodinal and you can't go wrong!

 

[Fotohuis]

http://www.flickr.com/photos/42499129@N00/

Yes, she's pretty well informed about Rodinal and stand development and pretty active in testing new materials and methods.
She's also one of our Rollei reference customers in the USA for the new Rollei ATP-V1 Technical Pan film and the Rollei Digibase CN200 film.

A very promising fine-art photographer for the near future.

Best regards,

Robert

 

[MenacingTourist]

I haven't gotten into my box of 4x5 iso 25 but I've shot lots of 6.5cm x 9cm in iso 25 as well as 5x7 in iso 100 and like others I've metered at box speeds. I develop in Rollo Pyro with a Jobo expert drum. I get great consistent results.

I love Efke film.

 

[Black Dog]

I've also found it fine at box speed-using PCAT semistand 1+200 for 35 mins.

 

[Ian Grant]

Perverse as it may seem I use EFKE PL25 at the same effective ISO as Tmax 100 - 50 ISO and get great results from both.

Due to quirks in the ASA(BS) and DIN film speed testing methods the box ISO's err in different directions. The EFKE 25's film speed has been the same since its introduction, as ADOX KB14/PL14, 14 being 14DIN=25ASA, where as other film manufacturers doubled their box speeds late 60's.

Ian

 

[JPD]

The EFKE 25's film speed has been the same since its introduction, as ADOX KB14/PL14, 14 being 14DIN=25ASA

DIN 14 is ASA 20. DIN 17 is ASA 40.

Fotokemika changed that to 25 and 50 when they started with DX-coded 135 cassettes.

Here are three Efke boxes from the 80's til today.

 

[Ian Grant]

Ok but my brain cells have decayed morev than yours !!!

But the films the same I haven't changed my personal ISO rating, ASA/BS 50

Ian

DIN 14 is ASA 20. DIN 17 is ASA 40.

Fotokemika changed that to 25 and 50 when they started with DX-coded 135 cassettes.

Here are three Efke boxes from the 80's til today.

 

[titrisol]

Same film as in the Morgan & Lester PhtoLab Index form the 50s!!!
That explains many things

Ok but my brain cells have decayed morev than yours !!!

But the films the same I haven't changed my personal ISO rating, ASA/BS 50

Ian

 

[fwp]

I've been using Efke -25 exclusively for the last couple of years and develop it using TFX2 and semi-stand development. I started using a hardening fixer
after getting tired of scratches from handling after processing. I've got a bunch of good negatives with scratches from the negative carrier to prove that the stuff is delicate!

 

[RoBBo]

I swear by FG-7 1:15 for this stuff, usually underexpose it just a bit, let the shadows go out and print dark.
It's beautiful.