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Efke 25 at 100?

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ntenny

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So I have this roll of Efke 25 that I accidentally exposed at 100 instead of the usual 50 (this was in daylight, where it becomes effectively an ASA 50 film). That's not much of a push, but I am unable to find any suggested dev times for it, except in a few developers I don't have (mostly Rodinal).

My usual time at 50 would be 9 minutes in HC-110 dilution B. Common rules of thumb for pushing suggest that I should expect something like 12 to 13 minutes for another stop. However, this isn't always the most typical film, and I'd like to know if anyone has any tested times or general suggestions.

I've got HC-110, PC-TEA, and Diafine on hand (PC-TEA times are generally the same as Xtol 1+2), but I don't see that the Diafine is likely to be any help, and I'm not really inclined to go out and buy another developer just for this one roll, so I guess I'm looking for times in HC-110 or Xtol. Any general insights into the behavior of this film under mild pushing would help too.

Anyone have any thoughts?

Thanks

-NT
 

StoneNYC

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As far as I understand the general rule is 2 minutes per stop so you would go from 9 to 13 minutes.

You should get Rodial, it's super cheap and super awesome.

I have HC-110 but I don't like it and haven't pushed with it but I know it's possible and would go with that one with the options you have.

However I would qualify this whole post by saying I've only been developing for a year. I've successfully developed a lot of things that people said couldn't be done like film from 1947 that I shot and then developed, however, I'm no expert, just an avid enthusiast of film. I've been shooting for 18 years though... Just recently (the last year) got to the developing side.

If you live in the states, I'll trade you the Rodinal for my bottle of HC-110 if you don't like it.... Haha

Hope that helps in some way.


~Stone

Mamiya: 7 II, RZ67 Pro II / Canon: 1V, AE-1, 5DmkII / Kodak: No 1 Pocket Autographic, No 1A Pocket Autographic | Sent w/ iPhone using Tapatalk
 

StoneNYC

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I've also pushed Tri-X to 3200... In Ilfsol 3 not HC-110 but I used the 2 minute per stop method. I probably would have gone another minute with pushing it 3 stops, it was slightly underexposed.


~Stone

Mamiya: 7 II, RZ67 Pro II / Canon: 1V, AE-1, 5DmkII / Kodak: No 1 Pocket Autographic, No 1A Pocket Autographic | Sent w/ iPhone using Tapatalk
 
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ntenny

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Thanks, but it seems that this discussion mainly covers the truism that there's a difference between a push and a true speed increase. (I tried it both in German and English to make sure I was understanding it correctly---the Google Translate version is a little surreal but intelligible.)

I know I'm not going to get back nonexistent shadow detail, contrast and grain will be higher (grain? from Efke 25 in medium format? that'll be interesting to see)---I've done plenty of experiments in pushing film and I'm not laboring under any illusions that it's magic. But the roll is already shot and there it is; fortunately I think the subject matter may work well with the look of pushed film.

And I appreciate the offer of Rodinal, I know the people who love it love it, but I probably have too many different developers around already.

If it turns out that this really is terra incognita, I'll shoot a test roll in similar lighting and try it at 12:30 as a starting point.

-NT
 

StoneNYC

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:smile:


~Stone

Mamiya: 7 II, RZ67 Pro II / Canon: 1V, AE-1, 5DmkII / Kodak: No 1 Pocket Autographic, No 1A Pocket Autographic | Sent w/ iPhone using Tapatalk
 

pentaxuser

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Looking at the MDC times for Efke 25 pushed one stop could be between 10 and 12 mins in Xtol 1+1 It seems to depend on whether you look at Efke 25 or Efke 50. and whether you regard the 25 as the equivalent of Efke 50.

A compromise might be 11 mins in Xtol 1+1 if you cannot find anyone who has developed Efke 25 in Xtol or HC110 pushed two or is that one stop?

HC110 and your experience of it being a one stop push with your reliable figure for it at 9 mins and two mins for a stop suggests 11 mins as well

A jump of nearly 45% for a one stop push sounds a lot

pentaxuser
 

zsas

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... I don't see that the Diafine is likely to be any help...
Why?

Diafine literature specifically states, "
Diafine can accomodate as much as a two stop increase over the recommended indexes, without serious loss of quality
"

http://www.freestylephoto.biz/pdf/Acufine_Diafine.pdf

Why not give it a try? Of the three devs you have, this claims a two stop increase...

*I've never tried this, so it might not work at all, just wonder why you dismiss Diafine so fast when it claims to give two stops, but maybe it is one of those films that cant be helped with Diafine....I dont know...just currious as to your thoughts on it not being of any help????*
 
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ntenny

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Well, I just did my test roll at 11 minutes in HC-110 dilution B, and it looks pretty good just based on eyeballing the negatives.

To zsas's question above, I didn't consider Diafine because it tends not to give much of a push/boost to slower films, and even the claim of two stops---which I think refers only to Tri-X, where the box suggests EI 1600---is a little optimistic. The MDC actually suggests a speed of 25 for Efke 25 in Diafine, which seems strange if it's really ISO 50---who ever heard of Diafine *losing* a stop?

Anyway, my plan based on this rough test is to go ahead and soup the original roll in HC-110 for 11 minutes. Thanks to everyone for the comments and suggestions.

-NT
 

Roger Cole

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Diafine works nicely with Pan F+ at about 64. Dunno about Efke as I never tried it but it's an oversimplification to say it doesn't do much for slow films. As I recall it used to give a useful boost to Pan-X too. But if the box says 25 it probably doesn't do much for it.
 
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