E6 HELP!

[JW PHOTO]

I have a very nice darkroom set-up,but the last color work done in it was Cibachrome printing(still have much paper left), which tells you how long I've been away from color in the darkroom. Here's the problem I need help with. I have 200 sheets of Fuji 4x5 64T, 50D film and 40 sheets of RFP50 8X10 film(all long expired) that I'd like to try and use before either I die or the film dies. It's in the fridge now, but was just cool stored for at least three years before I got it. I know there will probably be color shifts and the like, but maybe I can filter or process some of that out. If nothing else I can always process it and scan/print as monochrome. I just want to use the stuff! Long story short......................I need some cheap chemicals to try this stuff out. If need be, I can mix my own since I have all the equipment needed. I just don't know where to start on the chemical end? I have searched the Internet, but it's hard to tell if some of these suppliers still make E6 chemicals or not. Does anybody have a source for a good, cheap E6 kit or any advice as to what I should try. Maybe Freestyles Arista kit??? This is a project for Spring colors and time isn't very important right now. Just need to get my ducks in a row. Thanks in advance.................John W

 

[Neil Grant]

I'm not in the US so can't understand your problem in identifying a suitable E6 kit. Your old out-of-date films could cause you a lot of problems. You should expect a speed loss, and probably contrast loss too. This would be less of a problem with negatve materials as they are intermediates. Probably a good idea to shoot a small amount of each right away and have professionally procesed to establish useability.

 

[Richard Man]

I have used both the Arista and Tentenal E-6 kits from Freestyle and do not notice much difference. I do scan (yea yea *hiss*), so not sure if one might notice more difference if optically printed. Not sure if you will save by mixing your own, but just to state the obvious: the 5L kit is much more cost effective than the 1L kit.

 

[JW PHOTO]

I'm not in the US so can't understand your problem in identifying a suitable E6 kit. Your old out-of-date films could cause you a lot of problems. You should expect a speed loss, and probably contrast loss too. This would be less of a problem with negatve materials as they are intermediates. Probably a good idea to shoot a small amount of each right away and have professionally procesed to establish useability.

Thanks Neil, I might end up doing just that. I don't mine a speed loss since it's large format anyway and if all else fails I can always scan and invert to B&W. I just can't see letting the film deteriorate any longer and might as well give it a try much sooner than later. Nothing ventured, nothing gained! John W

 

[JW PHOTO]

I have used both the Arista and Tentenal E-6 kits from Freestyle and do not notice much difference. I do scan (yea yea *hiss*), so not sure if one might notice more difference if optically printed. Not sure if you will save by mixing your own, but just to state the obvious: the 5L kit is much more cost effective than the 1L kit.

I would be scanning these also and I know it's frowned on here, but as my friend Clint says, "A mans gotta do, what a mans gotta do"! I have a Microtek ArtixScan M1 that works great for 4x5 and 8x10 negative/trans. If I were to wet print these it would be as B&W with maybe an inter-negative of some kind? Don't know for sure? I'll check Freestyle out and weigh my options. John W

 

[Rudeofus]

Since the E6 process is very standardized, I'd say any kit you can get your hands on is going to work. Some kits include instructions how to balance the colors in case you have a color shift. This instructions are specific to film maker, so they may or may not be applicable across kits.

Since you film stock was not overly sensitive to begin with, it may just work despite its old age ...

 

[wildbill]

After several years of using kodak 5L e6 kits, I'm now using Tetenal Colortec kits from freestyle. The results are fine. The 50D will have a magenta cast and some (or quite a bit) of dmax loss. but usually correctable in post.

 

[JW PHOTO]

After several years of using kodak 5L e6 kits, I'm now using Tetenal Colortec kits from freestyle. The results are fine. The 50D will have a magenta cast and some (or quite a bit) of dmax loss. but usually correctable in post.

I figured on the magenta cast since Velvia will go that way too. As long as it's an "overall" shift I really don't care much, unless it gets extremely heavy.

 

[Sirius Glass]

Check out our sponsors B&H and FreeStyle for the chemistry.

 

[Richard Man]

Using old film stock can have that "film look" to it. I shot 10 rolls of 15+ years old Ektarchrome in HK and it's great!

Be different

 

[wildbill]

Using old film stock can have that "film look" to it. I shot 10 rolls of 15+ years old Ektarchrome in HK and it's great!

Be different

as opposed to that film look that fresh film has.

 

[polyglot]

Fuji sells a 5L E6 kit that will process about 50 rolls; it doesn't seem to be very available in the USA but you can buy it in the UK/EU and probably ship it.

 

[mts]

PM to me if you would like alternative (unofficial) formulae to scratch-mix your own E-6. Be prepared for a fair amount of experimenting and testing using the MacBeth chart, especially for your older stock.

 

[JW PHOTO]

PM to me if you would like alternative (unofficial) formulae to scratch-mix your own E-6. Be prepared for a fair amount of experimenting and testing using the MacBeth chart, especially for your older stock.

Thanks, I sent you a PM. John W