E6 dev in Jobo - film came out with blue base (instead of black)

[masimix]

It also looks unfixed, the base is not clear, is there anything to be done now - afterwards?

Six baths, and it was my first time, but I got help from a friend who used the same chemicals just a week before, with great results.

Where the film should be clear, at the beginning of the film, it is grey.

If anyone knows what went wrong here, it at least would be something to learn, the best is if the films can still be saved, with a new fix or anything.

Hopefully,

Marius

 

[Ghostman]

The base on E6 and C-41 looks milky and unfixed when it is wet but it clears as it dries.

 

[Photo Engineer]

Rewet the film, bleach, wash, fix and stabilize (yes, formalin stabilzer). Or, if you have a prebleach, start with that step and follow through the entire process from that step on.

If that does not fix the problem, then there has been a processing fault. The re-exposure, or reversal bath might be bad, the first developer might have been too long or it might have been contaminated, or the color developer might have been too short or bad.

PE

 

[BMbikerider]

A blue overall tint usually means contamination between 1st and 2nd developers.

 

[masimix]

The base on E6 and C-41 looks milky and unfixed when it is wet but it clears as it dries.

I know, but I cut of the first strip of the film and brought it with me, it's still blue and grey where it should be white.

The film is in a drying cabinet and I will check it tomorrow.

 

[masimix]

Rewet the film, bleach, wash, fix and stabilize (yes, formalin stabilzer). Or, if you have a prebleach, start with that step and follow through the entire process from that step on.

If that does not fix the problem, then there has been a processing fault. The re-exposure, or reversal bath might be bad, the first developer might have been too long or it might have been contaminated, or the color developer might have been too short or bad.

PE

This is very useful info, thanks. I'll try to bleach and wash, but formalin? Don't know if that is within reach..

I'm guessing some chem has gone bad, and there is nothing to do, I was warned.

 

[masimix]

A blue overall tint usually means contamination between 1st and 2nd developers.

This is likely what has happened, the dev has gone bad, could that cause it?

 

[CatLABS]

.........and stabilize (yes, formalin stabilzer).....
PE

As formalin is kind of bad for you (and others, and fish and so on), so you can use a non formalin stab (tetenal and champion make such a thing) Or you can use US made sprint stab solution.

 

[Photo Engineer]

You have all misunderstood my post.

1. If you can, run the E6 process cycle from the bleach onward to the end, but if there is no PREBLEACH, uses a Formalin stabilizer.

2. Even better, iif you have a PREBLEACH, run the E6 process from that point on, and use all of the steps. No formalin is needed as it is in the Prebleach.

3. Yes, I know that Formalin is dangerous, but some form of Formalin is needed or the E6 film dyes fade rather easily. Normally, a harmless form of Formalin is in the Prebleach.

4. In no case should you bleach, wash and dry. NO NO.

PE

 

[masimix]

You have all misunderstood my post.

1. If you can, run the E6 process cycle from the bleach onward to the end, but if there is no PREBLEACH, uses a Formalin stabilizer.

2. Even better, iif you have a PREBLEACH, run the E6 process from that point on, and use all of the steps. No formalin is needed as it is in the Prebleach.

3. Yes, I know that Formalin is dangerous, but some form of Formalin is needed or the E6 film dyes fade rather easily. Normally, a harmless form of Formalin is in the Prebleach.

4. In no case should you bleach, wash and dry. NO NO.

PE

I got it, just didn't know about the Formalin.

Good news, a new run thru bath 4, 5 and 6 did the job, that's pre-bleach, bleach and fix.

Film came out properly fixed, but colors are off. For some of the exposures that looked fine, for others, not so fine, but I'm happy, thanks!