Durst Optimo CL vs Optimo AC

Fredbear · 2025-08-15T17:10:44-0400

This thread may get limited action due to the rarity of these machines these days, but if anyone might have any experience with either device I would be grateful for information.

In particular does anybody have experience with both of these machines, and might be able to tell me the practical uses of one over the other. I have read as much information as I can seem to find online. I have gone through the original technical brochure so I’m aware of the features of both devices.

I’m wondering if there’s anyone out there that has practical experience with both machines that can tell me if one was better than the other or if they were both practically the same. Maybe the fancier features of the AC version didn’t work that well, or maybe they were fantastic…!

Any info at all would be greatly appreciated.

gary mulder · 2025-08-15T20:58:02-0400

For about 15 years I used a Durst Optopia. The hard part is keeping the thing in working order.

Fredbear · 2025-08-16T02:18:20-0400

Thanks for your reply Gary. I’ve read all of your previous reply’s to other threads on these Optimo/Optopia posts. There is so little info about these machines online so I appreciate you going through checklists and drawing up a how to go about trying to repair an Opto Ecu. Checklists etc.

I’ve recently bought two Optimo CL’s and have also bought a spare Opto Ecu and trans stabiliser. Have also sourced a bunch of spare motors, worm driver/filter set, transformer and some other bits a pieces. The hope being that my two may eventually turn into one but that I can keep everything going for as long as possible.

Have also been offered an Optimo AC, I don’t necessarily need it but am trying to gather whether the extra features are worth it. I can find explanations of these features but can’t really find anybody speaking about actual their practical experience. Apart from one 14 year old thread reply on here from a guy mentioning that he worked these machines and loved them.

gary mulder · 2025-08-16T03:20:33-0400

I used mine for printing my one work. In VCNA mode there were only slight corrections necessary. More towards what karakter I wanted than basic process corrections. If you are printing from negatives of unknown source maybe you want a video analyser not a Optimo AC version. The AC version will only give you a coarse middle grey starting point. After that starting point you will still have to make some test prints. Assuming you are doing one off art prints. If you want to put out hundreds prints a day from all sorts of negatives maybe the AC version is a option.

koraks · 2025-08-16T03:26:34-0400

gary mulder said:
The hard part is keeping the thing in working order.

Were these the machines that you kept repairing the motor drive electronics on?

gary mulder · 2025-08-16T03:47:21-0400

koraks said:
Were these the machines that you kept repairing the motor drive electronics on?

More the color sensors and the autofocus positioning. After swapping parts I needed to recalibrate. A rather time consuming process.

Fredbear · 2025-08-16T04:14:24-0400

gary mulder said:
I used mine for printing my one work. In VCNA mode there were only slight corrections necessary. More towards what karakter I wanted than basic process corrections. If you are printing from negatives of unknown source maybe you want a video analyser not a Optimo AC version. The AC version will only give you a coarse middle grey starting point. After that starting point you will still have to make some test prints. Assuming you are doing one off art prints. If you want to put out hundreds prints a day from all sorts of negatives maybe the AC version is a option.

Thank you for this info Gary. So the AC version was really just for labs churning out prints where the techs wanted as little messing around with test prints as possible?
Do both versions do the exact same thing but the AC just has some auto options? As in those options can be turned off or not chosen?

Fredbear · 2025-08-16T04:16:19-0400

gary mulder said:
More the color sensors and the autofocus positioning. After swapping parts I needed to recalibrate. A rather time consuming process.

What would you say the weakest parts of the machines are, as in where the most common faults occur? What things to look for?

koraks · 2025-08-16T04:48:10-0400

gary mulder said:
More the color sensors and the autofocus positioning. After swapping parts I needed to recalibrate. A rather time consuming process.

Ah yeah, I can imagine. A big time investment in repairs & calibration in the hopes of saving time during printing. This would make sense if one is doing high-volume production work.

gary mulder · 2025-08-16T04:54:55-0400

Fredbear said:
Thank you for this info Gary. So the AC version was really just for labs churning out prints where the techs wanted as little messing around with test prints as possible?
Do both versions do the exact same thing but the AC just has some auto options? As in those options can be turned off or not chosen?

AFAIK the AC has color light sensors between the negative and the lens. It will compensate the light source to compensate the negative to a pre calibrated value. The same way the 2505 AC.

gary mulder · 2025-08-16T05:04:42-0400

koraks said:
Ah yeah, I can imagine. A big time investment in repairs & calibration in the hopes of saving time during printing. This would make sense if one is doing high-volume production work.

For me it was the auto sizing. Very quick way to get exactly the right magnification size. And possibility repeat a print the same way after days or months without hassle .

gary mulder · 2025-08-16T05:11:44-0400

Fredbear said:
What would you say the weakest parts of the machines are, as in where the most common faults occur? What things to look for?

Hard to say. Just anything can go bust. I had no problems with the power supply. The boards on the right side of the color head needed the most attention.

Fredbear · 2025-08-16T05:14:34-0400

gary mulder said:
AFAIK the AC has color light sensors between the negative and the lens. It will compensate the light source to compensate the negative to a pre calibrated value. The same way the 2505 AC.

The other feature that it seems to state in the literature is the-
“Auto dead head”
Which states-
“Partial shading (dodging) or local spot printing possible without colour cast by presetting filtration and simultaneous swinging in of all three exposure-terminating filters.”

But does this actually work? Any experience with it?

Fredbear · 2025-08-16T05:15:55-0400

gary mulder said:
Hard to say. Just anything can go bust. I had no problems with the power supply. The boards on the right side of the color head needed the most attention.

Ok!! Good to know! So it was more those boards and not the Opto Ecu? Or you also had issues with your Opto Ecu?

gary mulder · 2025-08-16T05:45:07-0400

Fredbear said:
Ok!! Good to know! So it was more those boards and not the Opto Ecu? Or you also had issues with your Opto Ecu?

Except the pushbutton switches and the backup battery I didn't have problems with that unit. If you ever have the head blocked on turning the unit on then a power board can go. In the back side of the Opto Ecu.

Fredbear · 2025-08-16T08:16:57-0400

gary mulder said:
Except the pushbutton switches and the backup battery I didn't have problems with that unit. If you ever have the head blocked on turning the unit on then a power board can go. In the back side of the Opto Ecu.

ok, that’s good to know! Thank you for the information Gary, it’s much appreciated.

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