Durst M800 and CLS 80 head

realbert · Jul 20, 2015

i everyone,

I am in the process of setting my own dark room and, being a 35mmRF and 6x6 shooter, I have decided to purchase a Durst M800 and CLS 80 head. Do any of you use this combination? Recommendation for multi-grade papers for the setting on the head VS filter grades?
Moreover I will highly appreciate any help in finding the manuals for both of the items.

Thanks a lot,

Alberto

PS In case I fail to find the manuals/data for the head, does anyone knows how to do the calibration of the head for the filter grades? Cheers!

RobC · Jul 20, 2015

don't know about that specific enlarger but Durst use units of 130 or 170 depending on the model.

The datasheets which are inside each box of paper you buy will tell you what the units to use are for each grade.

My durst modular 70 uses the 170 unit scale and my durst L1200 uses the 130 unit scale.

The units on my Durst L1200 are exactly match what Ilford say I should be using. Well they were for the old MGIV paper. I haven't tested the new Classic version yet.

Other makes of paper aren't so exact. But the thing is that with Y+M filtration you really don't need to think in exact grade terms. You just use what the paper datasheet says to use and adjust to taste as you print. You will soon get a feel for it if you print often enough.

If you want to test then you will need a transmission step wedge. You print that at softest contrast (grade 00) so that you have at least one white step at one end and one black step at the other. i.e. the print fits somewhere within the step range. You then print at all the other grades using same time and without moving/adjusting anything so you get a print for each of grades 00,0,1,2,3,4,5 grades. You then compare the prints by lining them up and if all is well, one of the steps (for example step position 10) will have the same tone on all the prints. If you have a densitometer even better as you can graph the results but it isn't a must to do that.

And use fresh new paper for the test and not some old stuff because old paper loses contrast and won't you show you true capability of the paper.

RalphLambrecht · Jul 20, 2015

RobC said:
don't know about that specific enlarger but Durst use units of 130 or 170 depending on the model.

The datasheets which are inside each box of paper you buy will tell you what the units to use are for each grade.

My durst modular 70 uses the 170 unit scale and my durst L1200 uses the 130 unit scale.

The units on my Durst L1200 are exactly match what Ilford say I should be using. Well they were for the old MGIV paper. I haven't tested the new Classic version yet.

Other makes of paper aren't so exact. But the thing is that with Y+M filtration you really don't need to think in exact grade terms. You just use what the paper datasheet says to use and adjust to taste as you print. You will soon get a feel for it if you print often enough.

If you want to test then you will need a transmission step wedge. You print that at softest contrast (grade 00) so that you have at least one white step at one end and one black step at the other. i.e. the print fits somewhere within the step range. You then print at all the other grades using same time and without moving/adjusting anything so you get a print for each of grades 00,0,1,2,3,4,5 grades. You then compare the prints by lining them up and if all is well, one of the steps (for example step position 10) will have the same tone on all the prints. If you have a densitometer even better as you can graph the results but it isn't a must to do that.

And use fresh new paper for the test and not some old stuff because old paper loses contrast and won't you show you true capability of the paper.

This may help

ic-racer · Jul 20, 2015

If you are just starting out buy Ralph's book you will want to read all the chapters. Also, you can probably use the Ilford table "Durst max 130" for now and make your own table once you get more experience.

gorbas · Jul 22, 2015

There are 2 most important pages from instruction manual
View attachment CLS80002.pdf
View attachment CLS80003.pdf

realbert · Jul 22, 2015

Thanks!

You guys are absolutely the "bestest"! I will update once I am set, which may take a while.

By the way, can I proceed with the calibration of the paper by means of the "transmission" wedges without having the densitometer is doable? If so, did any of you did it and noticed an increased "control" on the overall process?

RobC · Jul 22, 2015

If your step wedges show that the curves all cross at the same point, i.e. one step has the same tone or close to same tone on all the prints then you don't need a densitometer to calibrate.

The recommended Y+M figures that come with the paper are usually fairly accurate so doing the step wedges just confirms that and lets you know which tone will stay the same when you change contrast settings. This is useful to know so that you know what to expect when changing contrast.

realbert · Jul 23, 2015

By the way, could you please let me know what are the lamps for the M800 head and for the CLS 80 color head? And how "easy" is to find them?
Moreover, did anyone try to use an "LED" warm light (let's say 2900K) lamp instead of the alogen lamp?

gorbas · Jul 23, 2015

ELC Lamp (250W, 24V) very common kind of bulb used in many colour heads.
LED replacement? Why?

realbert · Jul 27, 2015

In case they run out or are not produced any more. Maybe to get a more "value for the buck" if they last longer.

Cheers,

Alberto

Durst M800 and CLS 80 head

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