Durst M605 / Siriotub / 50mm lens problems!

[gamincurieux]

Hi again! I know I know, there's been posts on this, both from me & others. But I really wanted to ask for anyone's advice once again.

My initial post was about not being able to focus a Schneider 50mm lens, yet I could focus my other 50's. This even though I am using the Siriotub, which is correct for 50mm. Problem solved, I got rid of the Schneider! No love lost. Thanks for advice on that anyway

Now another problem, albeit not a huge one. I have just picked up a Rodenstock Rodagon 50mm 2.8, the heavy older style with the silver knobs around the aperture adjustment ring.

It sits so far into the Siriotub that I cannot see the red/green glowing aperture numbers.

However, I CAN focus it.... unlike the Schneider problem. That leaves me with the Nikon/Rodenstock/Fujinar, that's quite enough!

But this not being able to see the illuminated aperture setting on the Rodagon because it is obscured by the Siriotub, has anyone else noticed this & have you been able to do anything about it???

ALSO, should there be so much light fall-off in the corners generally??? That no matter which lens I use.

I never for a moment envisaged having hassles like this with a modern enlarger!

I mean, sure I can count, I'll be able to use the lens (haven't as yet), but I would still like to be able to see it like I can easily with the Nikon (the Fujinar's aperture is not illuminated).

Many thanks as always, Paul

 

[Mike Kennedy]

The light fall off is a problem.Are you sure you're using the correct lens mount?
My 50mm is screwed into a recessed mount,the 75mm sits in a flatter mount.

 

[Mahler_one]

Although some have criticized him, Jens Jensen of Durst USA is capable of answering almost any question regarding Durst equipment of all kinds. I would suggest sending him an email with your queries. He is often travelling to various areas of the globe installing what appears to be an increasing number of analog installations that are focusing ( yes, the pun! ) on Durst equipment. Thus, you might have to wait a bit for a response.

Ed

 

[Rick A]

Years ago I had a Durst M-601 I never experienced any of these problems. This was a simple machine that came with a fixed lensboard, all you had to do was switch lenses to go between 35mm and 6x6 formats. The negative carrier had adjustable blades to use any size negative from 110 to 6x6. It looks to me like the newer "upgraded" machines are brand specific on accessories. I feel for your frustration, and I hope you can solve your problems soon.

Rick

 

[pentaxuser]

Can't speak for a Rodenstock 50mm but the El Nikkor 50mm sits a long way into the recessed panel such that you have to really go way down to see the illuminated aperture which isn't very bright and it puts a kink in my neck!

The 80mm Rodenstock in the flat panel is much easier to see and looks brighter. It may be just a drawback of needing a recessed panel for the 50mm lens.

pentaxuser

 

[Shangheye]

For the fall off you need to screw the lamp (from the bottom of the enlarger head) upwards to increase the image circle. The manual states you have to do that. Also...have you got the right condensers in for the 50mm lens (they are different to those required for the 80mm)....if not, then you will suffer fall off. The 50mm requires a recessed standrad, and I can't see my apertures either...but I know how many clicks I need ;-)K

 

[bdial]

Just count clicks. Aside from focusing, there isn't much reason to use the lens at anything except its best aperture, so there's nothing worth seeing on the f/stop ring anyway.

 

[gamincurieux]

Kal, this is a color head with halogen lamp, so there's no screwing the bulb in or out like you can with the B&W head. Nor are there condensers, it is a diffuser enlarger.

 

[ic-racer]

Kal, this is a color head with halogen lamp, so there's no screwing the bulb in or out like you can with the B&W head. Nor are there condensers, it is a diffuser enlarger.

I count clicks as suggested.

What do you mean by light falloff? If you have the 6x6 or larger mixing box in place with no negative carrier, then you should get a circular image with no negative carrier in place. But when you put the 35mm negative carrier in place, it should recieve light from the center of that circle with no falloff.

 

[Shangheye]

Kal, this is a color head with halogen lamp, so there's no screwing the bulb in or out like you can with the B&W head. Nor are there condensers, it is a diffuser enlarger.

Sorry hadn't realised it was the col,our head...I have one of those too, but don't use it. Cant't help you then

 

[Ralph Javins]

Good morning;

A 50mm lens screwed into the IXOTUB, SIXTUB, or SIRIOTUB? Yup, they are in there. Yes, with the 606, M-600, M-601, et cetera, you do just count the clicks. If you are really fortunate, you have found the little clamp-on handle that hangs down from the aperture ring for easier turning than getting your fingers up into the 'TUB to set the aperture. I am 6'3" tall, and I have hands to match. Getting to the aperture ring on a Schneider Componon 50mm f:4.0 lens was always a problem.

 

[gamincurieux]

I just stumbled across the Durst NERIOTUB....... yet another 'tub'........ though it looks like it's recessed enough to sort this problem out.

 

[gamincurieux]

Incidentally, I have the same issue on my De Vere 504...... I wonder if they make a deeper lens board.

 

[lajolla]

I'm using a newer 50mm apo rodagon-n f2.8 screwed into the plastic siriotub lens board on an M605 with absolutely no problems, either in reading the rodagon aperture scale or using the aperture ring adjustment mechanisms. I have also never had a problem with using 50mm El-Nikkor or 50mm Schneider enlarging lenses with the siriotub lens board on an M605. Perhaps you can find a durst siriopla plastic lens board (meant for 80mm enlarging lenses) that might work better with your older rodagon?