Durst M605 Colour europlug replacement possible?

Firstly hi everyone. First post here as relatively new to the enlarger / printing world - Its a steep learning curve ahead.

I'm here looking for some advice that I couldn't find on previous threads.

I recently purchased a Durst M605 colour enlarger with a TRA305N transformer. I also have a Paterson 2000D timer. The transformer has a flat europlug 2 pin lead but the timer has a UK C14 kettle socket. The transformer appears to be double insulated so am I safe to just cut the transformer wire and connect the L & N wires to the kettle plug provided by Paterson missing out the earth or am I safer to find adapters? I can't seem to track down a europlug > C14 adapter but I can get a euro > 3 pin plug adapter and then a 3 pin socket > kettle adapter which in theory would do the job!

Has anyone any experience of doing this and lived to tell the tale? Or should I just persuade an electrician to look at it...

Any thoughts welcome.

Thanks.

djb070_4 said:

Firstly hi everyone. First post here as relatively new to the enlarger / printing world - Its a steep learning curve ahead.

I'm here looking for some advice that I couldn't find on previous threads.

I recently purchased a Durst M605 colour enlarger with a TRA305N transformer. I also have a Paterson 2000D timer. The transformer has a flat europlug 2 pin lead but the timer has a UK C14 kettle socket. The transformer appears to be double insulated so am I safe to just cut the transformer wire and connect the L & N wires to the kettle plug provided by Paterson missing out the earth or am I safer to find adapters? I can't seem to track down a europlug > C14 adapter but I can get a euro > 3 pin plug adapter and then a 3 pin socket > kettle adapter which in theory would do the job!

Has anyone any experience of doing this and lived to tell the tale? Or should I just persuade an electrician to look at it...

Any thoughts welcome.

Thanks.

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Sure, talk to an electrician, but be aware, that any reasonable electrician will advise against a two -pin setup bypassing earth! The flat europlug 2-pin lead is designed for very low-power applications or equipment not requiring earthing,such as concealed equipment with a plastic housing.

Having spent some time in Europe, without a photo, it sounds as if the two pin plug is basically the equivalent to a US non-polarized plug. That is because it can be plugged in in either direction and a ground is not required. I would connect the transformer to the load and neutral wires of the kettle plug and not use the ground at all. The transformer is probably at neutral ground already. If you use the ground wire there is a possibility of creating a ground loop if the wall socket happened to be wired incorrectly.

garry611 said:

The transformer is probably at neutral ground already

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The primary of the transformer will be at whatever potential the incoming neutral is. I think in most countries in the world it's required that neutral is very close to earth/GND potential, but consult local code on this and measure if you want to be sure. The phase will evidently cycle around this by up to (+/-) 325V in the UK and Europe (230VAC).

The secondary of the transformer will be floating by definition, unless it's fixed at some potential, which is usually not the case; see below. The fact that the secondary of a transformer floats is actually a good thing from a safety viewpoint.

garry611 said:

If you use the ground wire there is a possibility of creating a ground loop if the wall socket happened to be wired incorrectly.

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No. Safety ground is not connected to the electrical circuit. It's connected to metal parts of the chassis and/or enclosure. Connecting safety ground to the electrical circuit will trip the earth leakage protection. Hence, the connection of a safety ground cannot and will not ever create a ground loop, at least in equipment made by anyone who knows what they're doing. It's a safety feature.

The iron core of the transformer is often connected to safety GND/earth, but the core has no electrical connection to the windings.

djb070_4 said:

TRA305N transformer

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AFAIK this has a plastic housing, so technically a safety ground is not even required, even by modern standards. You can connect a two-prong connector to this. If you open up the unit, you'll probably see that the GND doesn't go anywhere anyway, at least nothing particularly meaningful; maybe the xformer core; see note above.

djb070_4 said:

Has anyone any experience of doing this and lived to tell the tale?

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I've owned and repaired a fair number of Durst transformers and I have yet to come across one with a 3-prong cable. They all come with the standard 2-prong connectors that were standard decades ago.

Technically kettle leads and sockets are actually modified C14, with a ridge in the kettle socket, so that you have to use the dedicated higher power rated cable.

You need an IEC male C14 Power Inlet Connector 240v 10a Screw Terminal Kettle Cable Plug, any electrical store will sell them, also Amazon or B&Q (online only). You want the one with the round rubber, not figure of 8, cable protector.

I use them for as extension leads for my studio flash units.

Ian

Hi guys, thanks for all the responses. Apologies, it probably would've been clearer if I'd included photos first so here you go!

The first two are the transformer with a moulded 2 prong plug which I assume is a europlug but curiously the transformer seems to be to a BS standard? Either way I'm guessing it doesn't have a ground wire. The transformer is a plastic housing, as suggested, and has a double insulation mark on the label. The third/fourth photo is the timer with the socket on the LHS and as you can see I have a 'kettle' lead adapter to take wiring. I guess the crux of my question is, can I cut the transformer plug off and wire it in to the kettle adapter or do I have to look at a complicated set of adapters / new transformer?

Apologies for the dumb questions but I'm not an electrical genius as you can probably tell. Just don't want to start cutting things and do some irreparable damage to the enlarger. Or me.

Again any further advice appreciated.

D

You can wire those up in any responsible way you prefer. Just connect only L and N, and leave safety GND disconnected. I'd take a trip to the local hardware store. Personally I prefer to keep the original connectors in place and buy or make an adapter.

koraks said:

You can wire those up in any responsible way you prefer. Just connect only L and N, and leave safety GND disconnected. I'd take a trip to the local hardware store. Personally I prefer to keep the original connectors in place and buy or make an adapter.

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Thanks Koraks. Yes, adapters may be the best way, at least at first. Unfortunately can't seem to get a single adapter that'll take the europlug straight to the kettle socket so will need to use the two step approach I think. Failing that I'll try rewiring. What's the worst that can happen!

Anyway, thanks for your help.

D

Would this work for you: Cerraxian C14 to C13 and Euro Y splitter power cable IEC14 male to IEC 13 female and euro CEE7/16 female extension cable on Amazon.de