Durst M605 130M - 170M - +40M/Y ... confused

maarten m · Jan 12, 2015

hello everybody,

i've been setting up a new darkroom with a Durst M605 but i can't really figur out the knob that adds 40M/Y.
Does this knob evenly add 40 to both filters (making like Y10-M50 into Y50-M90)?
Or does this know transforms the colorhead with 130M scale into a 170M scale?

thanks.

pentaxpete · Jan 12, 2015

I have a similar knob on my Durst M305 Colour head --it puts in RED as Yellow+Magenta in equal amounts equals RED -- so 40Y+40M = 40Red.

ndrs · Jan 12, 2015

It is probably meant to be used as orange mask when printing from unmasked colour negative film. At least that's what I've been using it for on an L1200.

maarten m · Jan 12, 2015

hm, it seems (from the documentation) it puts an additional 40Y and 20M filter (on top of the normal filtering?) if the 130 filtering is not sufficient.
so, how do the grades work then. do i follow the 130M or 170M guidelines?

ic-racer · Jan 12, 2015

maarten m said:
hm, it seems (from the documentation) it puts an additional 40Y and 20M filter (on top of the normal filtering?) if the 130 filtering is not sufficient.
so, how do the grades work then. do i follow the 130M or 170M guidelines?

You don't want to use the supplemental red filter with B&W materials.

maarten m · Jan 12, 2015

why don't i, IC-racer?

JackRosa · Jan 12, 2015

+1

maarten m said:
why don't i, IC-racer?

Same question .... why not? I never use mine; just curious.

ic-racer · Jan 12, 2015

To the paper, yellow and magenta filtration together produce neutral density. However, since the filter is not equal yellow and magenta is going to be confusing to use it as a ND filter because it will alter the contrast a little, in addition to cutting back the light intensity.

Some interesting possibilities:
1) Put an ILFORD #5 in its place if you feel the maximum magenta is not as good as the ILFORD #5. Then swing that into place (instead of the MAGENTA filter) when you need maximum contrast.
2) A fellow on the LF forum with an 8x10 Durst put a YELLOW filter in its place. Now he can split grade print without twisting dials. He has MAGENTA set on MAXIMUM. The "WHITE LIGHT" is now the MAGENTA ON/OFF lever and takes the MAGENTA away quickly. The "SUPLEMENTAL FILTER" lever swings the YELLOW in and out quickly.
3) Or just ignore it if you print only B&W.

JackRosa · Jan 13, 2015

Thanks IC

ic-racer said:
To the paper, yellow and magenta filtration together produce neutral density. However, since the filter is not equal yellow and magenta is going to be confusing to use it as a ND filter because it will alter the contrast a little, in addition to cutting back the light intensity.

Some interesting possibilities:
1) Put an ILFORD #5 in its place if you feel the maximum magenta is not as good as the ILFORD #5. Then swing that into place (instead of the MAGENTA filter) when you need maximum contrast.
2) A fellow on the LF forum with an 8x10 Durst put a YELLOW filter in its place. Now he can split grade print without twisting dials. He has MAGENTA set on MAXIMUM. The "WHITE LIGHT" is now the MAGENTA ON/OFF lever and takes the MAGENTA away quickly. The "SUPLEMENTAL FILTER" lever swings the YELLOW in and out quickly.
3) Or just ignore it if you print only B&W.

Thanks IC for the excellent suggestions. The split-printing idea is genius!

maarten m · Jan 13, 2015

so if i get it right, this additional filter is only intended for color-printing.
thanks for the insight.

so actually, the B.Filter is just a standard Grade II - filter.

ic-racer · Jan 13, 2015

Since most multigrade paper is about grade #2, most multigrade #2 filters function like a neutral density filter so the printing times match the other grades.

Yuriy Kuzin · Dec 16, 2015

I also see a lot of Durst M605 color heads without the "B.filter" knob and white light indicator. Which head type is newer, with the "B.filter" knob or without?

Durst M605 130M - 170M - +40M/Y ... confused

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