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Durst 138s wall brace

The enlarger of forum member JP80874 is mounted to the wall, but it does not show well in this picture.
 
You could have a shot fabricate an L bracket out of an alum angle and bolt it to the wall and the top of the enlarger. My recollection is that there are threaded holes on the cable housing at the top.
 
The only wall fitting I know of is as kind a stabilisation of the collumn.

By means of the two screws at the sides of the spring casing at the top of the collumn (intended by Durst for this). The fixture to the wall would be a selfdesigned means.
One means would be a U-bent steel profile with horizontal long-holes to take the two screws.

Or no long-holes, but adjust the U-brace by means of nuts and a threaded bolt which holds it at the wall.
 
So here is the wall bracket from glennview.com

I would assume you remove the bottom base and attach this. Use some lag bolts(stud wall) or anchors(concrete) to fasten the bracket to the wall.

I always used a home made wall coupler to fasten mine to the wall on top of the column below the counter weight housing. I used some wood I routed out (I'm sue a jig saw would work as well) and some pipe strap and fastened to wood to the wall. This stabilized it a lot but I always used the standard base on the bottom.
 

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Hi,

I am not very familiar with the Durst 138s, but I have the Durst L1000 set up with the wall mount. What I am wondering about is how the two brackets from Glennview could work. From pictures I gather that on top of the 138s' column there's a metal part from which the wire goes down to the lifting mechanism. I do not see how that metal piece could work with one of the brackets in the pictures.

The wall mount for the L1000 is well made and it changes this enlarger completely. Attached a picture of it, if you want I can make some better pics of the wall mount itself . . .
 

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2 views of one bracket.
One bracket replaces base(floor stand).
Durst may have made some upper wall clamp and I agree an upper wall clamp is necessary to use the lower. However special hardware is hardly necessary, something suitable can be made of a few dollars of stuff from any hardware store.
There is a metal ribbon that winds into the spring loaded counterbalance that must be avoided.
 
Now I understood your two pics (Glennview) better. Yes, it will not be difficult to fabricate something at the top. Must be strong and there should be a way to be precise about levelling it out.

That's what is nice about the L1000 wall mount, once it is up you can still work on levelling it correctly.
 
Here is a shot of the top spring housing for an L-184 frame. The L-138 is similar just smaller. The bolt at the lower back of the housing is the attachment bolt. All you need is a U or L shaped bracket with a slotted hole for this bolt to go through, and long enough to reach and bolt to the wall. Measure the distance to the wall and have a metal shop make it for you. I'm sure you could also make something out of wood if so inclined. Never found a need to attach the L-184 to the wall, the L-138 & Devere 5108 are a different matter.

 

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I just "fabricated" (I use the term loosely) some wall braces for a Beseler 45. I used 1/2" steel electrical conduit (cheap, sturdy), flattening and bending the ends to fit to wall and enlarger frame. It was a bit of an effort to flatten the ends; another person suggested heat from a torch would have made that much easier. Using copper plumbing pipe would also be easier.
 

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There is an official wall brace for the 138, but I live just a few blocks from an infamous earthquake fault, so want everything bolted down like
heck. There are two big bolts on the side of the 138 column. I attached these to two 1/4-inch thick (or perhaps 7 ga) Simpson steel L-braces
(just a few bucks apiece), and in turn screwed these into a four-foot wide strip of 1x4 oak which spans several wall studs. Solid.
 

Durst made at least two different types of wall mounting bracket for the L1000 / L1200. The one you have is the same as mine and is preferable because it spreads the load of the enalarger along the full height of the wall mount.

The other one they made is more like the Glenview one shown above. That design puts most of the weight on the bottom bracket so the wall its fitted to needs to be very strong. Preferably block with deep drilled holes to hold it firmly as there will be a lot of weight held on a small fixing area.

But if what is being looked for is just a brace to hold the top of the column in a fixed position (not a complete wall mount ) it should be simple enough to fabricate something himself as it won't be load bearing.
 
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