I have a little Nikon Coolscan V. I've never taken the time to figure out negative film, but it's amazing for my Dad's old Kodachrome slides. His old ASA 10 Kodachrome from that scanner will produce huge beautiful inkjet prints. Best scanner ever made.Have you actually, personally, used Nikon scanners? Nikon's slide duplicator is inherently inferior to their scanner due to lack of Digital Ice (ignore the misinformation about that) and the duplicator's introduction of yet another lens into the process (same reason an optical print cannot be as detailed as an inkjet print from a Nikon scan).
Have you actually, personally, used Nikon scanners? Nikon's slide duplicator is inherently inferior to their scanner due to lack of Digital Ice (ignore the misinformation about that) and the duplicator's introduction of yet another lens into the process (same reason an optical print cannot be as detailed as an inkjet print from a Nikon scan).
I think your machine is cool as can be. I showed my wife, she doesn't give a wit about this stuff. Even she could recognize the elegance of the setup. I don't scan much of anything but I really like what you have accomplished. Great talent!Yes, I had a CoolScan 5000 with the film strip adapter, decidedly a more pedestrian (slow) process though I agree its a nice bit of kit.
I simply wanted something more standalone, timely, convenient, while retaining essential performance. I couldn't be happier with the quality of the resulting digital images.
-Nathan
I'd very much like one of these..
Very nice work! I'll echo the other commenters who suggested a simpler version with no motor. While I don't care about speed even a motor-less version would be faster than a scanner.
I think your machine is cool as can be. I showed my wife, she doesn't give a wit about this stuff. Even she could recognize the elegance of the setup. I don't scan much of anything but I really like what you have accomplished. Great talent!
I am more in favor of a self contained version, like shown in the video. Of course, it would have to be more universal. Supporting Canon and other makers. Where do we sign up?Thanks for all the awesome feedback! Yes, the call for a simpler version is darn near unanimous and makes sense (though as you can tell, not my first impulse).
I've started to iterate a design that removes the automation while still having a mechanical advance to make frame alignment easy and keep our hands off the film.
What do folks think about keeping the backlight vs. taking that out (BYOL - Bring Your Own Light?)? My inclination is remove the LED but keep the defuser so that this could be purely mechanical and you could pair it with your favorite flash or light panel.. which if anything would often yield better results as the light would be inherently more diffuse/even coming from a more distant source.
-Nathan
Thanks for all the awesome feedback! Yes, the call for a simpler version is darn near unanimous and makes sense (though as you can tell, not my first impulse).
I've started to iterate a design that removes the automation while still having a mechanical advance to make frame alignment easy and keep our hands off the film.
What do folks think about keeping the backlight vs. taking that out (BYOL - Bring Your Own Light?)? My inclination is remove the LED but keep the defuser so that this could be purely mechanical and you could pair it with your favorite flash or light panel.. which if anything would often yield better results as the light would be inherently more diffuse/even coming from a more distant source.
-Nathan
YES . Everyone has access to light. Any DSLR can be set for various light sources. The 1970 version of your device is a Nikon PB4 bellows with a PS4 copier with the bellows lens. It has a holder for film strips (coiled) . It has a white acrylic diffuser, bring your own light. The mechanical film advance is the best feature. Have a base model variant that has the device with the power advance, let the user provide the light and trip the shutter. Each frame could be advanced by pushing the button. Offer a high end version for big money similar to what you have shown.Thanks for all the awesome feedback! Yes, the call for a simpler version is darn near unanimous and makes sense (though as you can tell, not my first impulse).
I've started to iterate a design that removes the automation while still having a mechanical advance to make frame alignment easy and keep our hands off the film.
What do folks think about keeping the backlight vs. taking that out (BYOL - Bring Your Own Light?)? My inclination is remove the LED but keep the defuser so that this could be purely mechanical and you could pair it with your favorite flash or light panel.. which if anything would often yield better results as the light would be inherently more diffuse/even coming from a more distant source.
-Nathan
Nathan,What do folks think about keeping the backlight vs. taking that out (BYOL - Bring Your Own Light?)?
Nathan,
First, congrats for the project, it is REALLY REALLY cool - put me on the pre-order list too(plus a 2nd one for 120 film!)
This topic has just been discussed in the thread about scanning 120 film, see starting from post #55 here: https://www.photrio.com/forum/threads/dslr-scanning-120-film.167447/page-3Speaking of throwaway frames, does anybody find it advantageous to bracket exposures when scanning with a camera? I've only just begun the process with my D810, and am still undecided on the whole process. I've been using the -1/0/+1 sequence, but my post processing skills aren't yet at a point where I actually know what I'm doing.
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