Use of "NX" tells the world you have Samsung in mind. Seems like a bad idea, give Samsungs abandonment of cameras.
That's a great tool. Not sure about all the details but it looks neat.Hi, I thought I'd share my latest addition to my goal of automating my personal film development and digitization.
I've used a lot of scanners and been quite disappointed with the colors and amount of effort & time required. I've grown quite fond of capturing my film/slides using a dSLR with a macro lens configuration and a color-temp adjustable light panel.
I had some downtime this week and roughed out this prototype (not a linear process - several iterations!). Video below.
Current Implemented Features;
- Bluetooth connectivity (iOS app for selecting color profiles, exposure count, and dSLR/Smartphone device selection)
- Stepper-based film advance & accurate frame positioning
- Controllable color temperature backlight
- Loader and Outfeed provisions for full rolls and film strips
- Manual control for lining up the first frame or dealing with unusual frame sizes.
This is part of my broader effort to create an open source workflow library in support of 35mm photography, film development, and digitization (previous two projects below).
- https://www.photrio.com/forum/threa...fp-yet-another-desktop-film-processor.164871/
- https://www.photrio.com/forum/threads/modular-daylight-developer-system-35mm.165828/#post-2159004
As always, any feedback or requests are appreciated!
Thanks!
-Nathan
Nathan,Actually, NX is just the name I liked at the time when I was modeling this and needed to name it (Film NX/Next).
This device *should* be fairly universal, I've been using it with my Nikon - though I mounted the IR LED centrally so it should activate the shutter on any IR-able camera with an appropriate lens that takes 52mm thread (or an adapter).
Thanks!
-Nathan
Nathan,
I'm not clear on what this hardware actually is. And is this just a prototype, or is it already in (low) volume manufacturing and therefore is available for purchase.
Finally, is there a plan for a 2 1/4" format slide/negative.
Phil Burton
That's pretty clever! Is this going to be adjustable to use with different focal length macro lenses? Also, I'd probably make it at least 58mm to work with a wider range of lenses, using stepup filters. Or maybe a Cokin style connector, since they're easy to find an adapter for most any sized filter thread.
I want one!
I like it, though I would be MUCH more interested in a simplified version...
I second the more simple approach
What are you using for a light source for rear illumination?
For slides copying a fixed color temperature of the light like 5000K is good. There is no need to adjust the color temp for slides. For color negatives however I would prefer to adjust the color of the light with RGB rather than just color temp.
Fred,I find when I'm scanning film with my DSLR that, for an assortment of reasons (cough!) I don't need nor want to scan every frame, or even every other frame.
Speaking of throwaway frames, does anybody find it advantageous to bracket exposures when scanning with a camera? I've only just begun the process with my D810, and am still undecided on the whole process. I've been using the -1/0/+1 sequence, but my post processing skills aren't yet at a point where I actually know what I'm doing.
I find when I'm scanning film with my DSLR that, for an assortment of reasons (cough!) I don't need nor want to scan every frame, or even every other frame.
Speaking of throwaway frames, does anybody find it advantageous to bracket exposures when scanning with a camera? I've only just begun the process with my D810, and am still undecided on the whole process. I've been using the -1/0/+1 sequence, but my post processing skills aren't yet at a point where I actually know what I'm doing.
Fred,
If you do a -1/0/+1 sequence, are you merging the results with an HDR application to get a final image?
Phil Burton
I find when I'm scanning film with my DSLR that, for an assortment of reasons (cough!) I don't need nor want to scan every frame, or even every other frame.
Speaking of throwaway frames, does anybody find it advantageous to bracket exposures when scanning with a camera? I've only just begun the process with my D810, and am still undecided on the whole process. I've been using the -1/0/+1 sequence, but my post processing skills aren't yet at a point where I actually know what I'm doing.
I'm not sure what I would use it for but it's cool! There's someone in the US that adapts old Carousel projectors with LED light with a DSLR pointing into the projector to scan slides. That would be fun too.I want one of these. I'm an idiot so it's got to be easy 250 bucks US. Nikon
These is useful feedback, thanks! I'll take a look at this and advise. I'm likely to leave at least the provisions for motorized advance since it fits my needs (this is still primarily a selfish project for my needs), though I think the main benefit I've found over something like the Nikon film/slide duplicator is that I'm able to hold the film with tighter tolerances so that I don't have to worry about level/lining up while I'm advancing.
That said, I my Nikon and Leica camera have consistent (enough) spacing, so I've been really happy with not having to manually advance through all my 36 exposure rolls... a better answer is probably for me to improve my photography skills so I'm not taking so many pictures in the first place!
-Nathan
The use of the slide projector works only for slides and not negative film strip. It does have the advantage of quick advancing the slides and you can load up to 140 slides at a time. I do have some concern though because I believe the slides would not be in the same position all the time.I'm not sure what I would use it for but it's cool! There's someone in the US that adapts old Carousel projectors with LED light with a DSLR pointing into the projector to scan slides. That would be fun too.
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