Drying Marks/Spots on B&W Film

LJG_Creative · Jun 16, 2008

Hi and good evening,

I've recently got back in to B&W processing again after a long time away from it. But I'm really enjoying the process but do seem to always have the same repeating problem with spots, drying marks, streaks all over my 35mm negs.

So far never a problem with 120 roll film. Perfect, Clean, couldn't be better.

I tried using ilford method of film washing and 20 min continious flow of water by hose into the dev tank. Same result.

Before I remove the washed film, I add a few drops of Ilford wetting agent but this sometimes leaves more marks than without using it.

My question is how do I clean my film safely that's hanging up in my durst film drying cabinet uncut? Is it OK to reload the roll of film back onto a paterson reel and re-wash with just water? then with or without wash aid.

More importantly, he can I prevent this from happening with 35mm. Is it possible I'm using the incorrect amount of wash aid? to the final rinse.

My 120 roll film is always perfect!

Thank in advance for your help and suggestions.

pquser · Jun 16, 2008

try this

wash film in 6 changes of filtered water at process temperture.

invert or better still rotate on something like a jobo for 1 min each then drain.

make up a tank full of filtered water and add just one drop of wetting agent never use washing up liquid.if the liquid foams you have used too much !

imerse and soak the film on the spiral in this for 4 mins and drain
ease it gently off the spiral and hang to dry.
if at all possible in a room that will not be visited for at least 2 hours.

Don't shake the film or touch it with your fingers.

make a thick but very loosely folded pad of good quality tissue...nothing that is printed on.

use this like a paint brush to ''sweep off' the water globules on the NON_EMULSION side of the film.

Never touch the other side.

peg the btm end of the film and leave completely alone till dry...

the marks you are getting are almost certainly due to too much wet agent and draughts across the film while it is drying.

Nail or lock the door shut and let no-one in untill the film is dry enough not to pick up dust.

If you can....leave it alone for 12 hours before cutting into file lenghts

youre right about 120....iv;e never had a problem with it either but 35mm can be a pain.

This is is method I use and I find it works.

the filter I use is the one that fits on the tap from paterson....clean the mesh now and then
and always scrub the spiral to get rid of wetting agent build up before the next film.

All the best.

pquser...bob at rochdale...uk.

LJG_Creative · Jun 17, 2008

Re-washed

Thanks for the heads up and advice.

I did as was suggested about re-washing and I used just 1 drop of wash aid this time. When the film was dry and I inspected it some of the spots and marks were gone but still had some visable and re-washed a 3rd time. Not perfect but a agin a little each time it's rewashed.

I shall cut down on the wash aid from now on. Cheers

Gary Holliday · Jun 17, 2008

I stopped using wash aid a while ago and dunk films for one minute into a tank of de-ionized water available from Halfords. Squeegee with fingers and air dry in totally sealed drying cabnet (no flow of air). Films are perfect.

selenium96 · Jun 17, 2008

I use the Ilford wash method but my final rinse is with distilled water with a drop of Edwal LFN wetting agent. I give the Patterson reels a shake but never use a squeegee or otherwise touch the film before I hang it to dry.

mohawk · Jun 17, 2008

after washing, just let the film go through some demineralised water. Works for me...

gainer · Jun 17, 2008

I am a heretic. I use my well water, wipe the negatives with a folded paper towel, and dry them with a hair dryer. Thus the emulsion side contains only the water that is in the emulsion, the other side of 35 mm film is perfectly dry before the dryer hits it, I have no drying marks or water spots in spite of the fact that my well water is full of minerals to the extent that dishes left to dry without wiping are quite spotted. Go figure.

rjphil · Jun 18, 2008

Give the film a quick rinse with distilled water, then a drop or two of photo-flo or LFN in distilled water. I had this problem with E6 a number of years ago, and was told that 120 and sheet films have a gelatin pelloid coating on the base that helps water to sheet off, while 35mm does not.

dancqu · Jun 18, 2008

gainer said:
I am a heretic. I use my well water, wipe the
negatives with a folded paper towel, and dry
them with a hair dryer.

I too run counter by using an eight blade film squeegee.
The film and squeegee have a short soak in half strength
PhotoFlo using distilled water. After hanging the film the
squeegee is drawn slowly down it's length.
Film dries fast and clean. Dan

vanimal · Jun 18, 2008

I got this recipe from a book by Carson Graves years ago. I am on well water as well and had terrific trouble with water spots.

10ml of photo flo
100ml of 91% isopropyl alcohol
distilled water to make 4 liters

After final wash, shake the excess water from the spooled film, dunk the film in this solution for 30 seconds, and then hang immediately to drip dry. The solution lasts indefinitely and you can reuse it although I just one shot it. I mix the solution straight into the gallon jug that the distilled water comes in and label the jug with a sharpie as PhotoFlo. The solution is inexpensive so I usually dunk 4 to 5 rolls in a Jobo can with the solution in it, and then discard it rather than pouring it back into the jug. (I have a thing about anything in the process going back upstream so to speak.) I have used this method for over a decade and my negs are perfect first time every time. End of Problem.

Jon Shiu · Jun 18, 2008

After washing I hang the film up and squeegee with a a strip of folded green photo wipe. I skip the photo flo since I figure I'm just going to wipe it off anyway.

Jon

johnfromnorwich · Feb 24, 2009

Bounce! Is this the type of thing we're talking about? I have no problems at all on 120 film, but this has happened to both of the 35 mm rolls I've developed. I think I'm maybe using too much wetting agent (residue?). Plus 35 mm is a long roll of film so possibly the run off is in contact for a bit longer. Any help appreciated. = John

Tom Kershaw · Feb 24, 2009

Are those not Newton's rings?

Tom.

johnfromnorwich · Feb 24, 2009

You mean as a scanning artifact? If they are then that would be excellent news. I have no experience with 35mm at all - I went straight from digital to 6x7 film - and I'm not able to get near an enlarger at the moment so I'm having to eyeball everything via a scanner. Flattening should fix this, correct? They are a bit curved (a problem in itself). = John

johnfromnorwich · Feb 24, 2009

Close inspection suggests that there is something on the negative - not the emulsion side.

Tom Kershaw · Feb 24, 2009

Perhaps you could photograph the negative in close up with a d*g*t*l camera to show the negative defect.

Flattening should fix this, correct?

For the most part yes.

Tom.

gainer · Feb 25, 2009

Clean and dry a sheet of glass, such as for a picture frame, in the same manner as for film. If it shows marks, your water may be good for your health, containing all the calcium, fluorine, iodine, etc. that your body needs, but film doesn't need that. If a final rinse in demineralized water does not cure the problem, there is something REALLY wrong.

Drying Marks/Spots on B&W Film

Privacy & Transparency

Privacy & Transparency