Dry to liquid conversion of Sodium Hydroxide for E6

[Kino]

I have an E6 kit I need to add 1.5 ML of Sodium Hydroxide to the Color Developer, but I have anhydrous (dry) chemistry.

I searched Anchell's Cook Book but found nothing helpful on this; how do I convert dry chemistry to liquid? Do I put 1.5 miligrams of SH in 1.5 ml of water?

As you can tell, I am only a recipe follower, not a chemist...

 

[Kino]

Never mind, I found elsewhere on the net that 5N NaOH is what is used to raise the PH in E6 and that can be made by SLOWLY adding 200g of Sodium Hydroxide to a liter of cold water (or like parts to like parts).

Time to get out the heavy rubber gloves and a face shield...

 

[Photo Engineer]

How do you know you have to raise the pH?

The kit should already be at the proper value? Are you trying something special with the process to get a color shift?

PE

 

[Kino]

The processed slides are heavily biased toward blue and all the information I find on the Internet, points toward.... 1. dilution of reversal bath to 60% strength or 2. raise the PH by adding 1.5ml of 5N NaOH 3. both.

I plan on modifying the chemistry in that order.

Here is my reference: Dead Link Removed

It IS a Wing Lynch Kit and the so-called additional instructions mentioned were no where to be found when I processed the first few rolls.

I have seen where some speculate that the WL kits are rebranded Kodak chems, but I cannot be sure of that...

 

[Photo Engineer]

Kodak does not make a powder E6 kit at all, so it is not rebranded.

Are the blacks black? Is the film black at the edges or is it blue there as well. If it is blue in the edges, it may be bad film or bad processing.

If the edges are black but the images are biased blue, then the fix you have should help.

PE

 

[KenS]

Wing Lynch

[/QUOTE]I have seen where some speculate that the WL kits are rebranded Kodak chems, but I cannot be sure of that...[/QUOTE]

Kino,

For the many years I ran a Wing Lynch (B/W, E6), I used the Kodak 'kits' for the E6 line and various developers as required for the B/W films

I cannot recall ever having any colour imbalance using E6 as per insrutuctions for any of the 4x5, 120 and 35mm Kodak colour films that went through that machine. We had to invest in the Wing Lynch after it was decided that my time was better spent making the photographs rather than standing in the darkroom watching a clock for too many hours every other day.

Ken

 

[Kino]

Kodak does not make a powder E6 kit at all, so it is not rebranded.

Are the blacks black? Is the film black at the edges or is it blue there as well. If it is blue in the edges, it may be bad film or bad processing.

If the edges are black but the images are biased blue, then the fix you have should help.

PE

PE,

The kit is liquid, 6 step. The "fix" was posted on the link I gave.

I see no true blacks over a strong light source; only a very deep purple in what appears to be a black and the shadows are mainly biased blue.

 

[Photo Engineer]

Actually, that second one appears pretty good. The leaves look autumnal and the branches are black. The sky is blue. The first one is kinda hard to tell. But the scanning process may have altered things. The edges do appear black in the scan.

The neutral balance should be neutral up into the black. If it is not, then it is either film or process. The edges should be neutral black and dense (about 3.0 for R/G/B).

I misunderstood the 'powder' comment. Sorry.

Fuji does recommend a different time in the first developer than Kodak does for their respective films. This depends on the processing equipment.

I guess you will have to use those 'fixes'.

Good luck.

PE

 

[Kino]

Actually, that second one appears pretty good. The leaves look autumnal and the branches are black. The sky is blue. The first one is kinda hard to tell. But the scanning process may have altered things. The edges do appear black in the scan.

The neutral balance should be neutral up into the black. If it is not, then it is either film or process. The edges should be neutral black and dense (about 3.0 for R/G/B).

I misunderstood the 'powder' comment. Sorry.

Fuji does recommend a different time in the first developer than Kodak does for their respective films. This depends on the processing equipment.

I guess you will have to use those 'fixes'.

Good luck.

PE

PE,

No problem on the "powder" thing; I didn't write that too clearly...

Yes, the #$%^%$ scan is not really indicative of what it looks like and I cannot manipulate it to make it actually represent what it looks like to the naked eye over a light box!

The edges look good and black and near the 3.0d you speak of, but the framelines are very deep purple.

Oh well, I'll try the fixes and see what happens...

 

[Kino]

OK, here is what I got.

Looks better but....

 

[Kino]

Kino,

For the many years I ran a Wing Lynch (B/W, E6), I used the Kodak 'kits' for the E6 line and various developers as required for the B/W films

I cannot recall ever having any colour imbalance using E6 as per insrutuctions for any of the 4x5, 120 and 35mm Kodak colour films that went through that machine. We had to invest in the Wing Lynch after it was decided that my time was better spent making the photographs rather than standing in the darkroom watching a clock for too many hours every other day.

Ken

Sorry Ken, didn't mean to ignore your post...

I have heard the 1 gallon kit, branded "Wind Lynch" is Kodak. I am using it in a Jobo ATL2300 processor and have little experience with either E6 kits or Jobos, so I am pretty much clueless.

Think I need to purchase a fresh Kodak Kit and dump this kit; it takes too much time and effort to mess it up due to aged chemistry...

thanks.

 

[Kino]

OK, so I got 2 more rolls that are not real important subject-wise (I am sure I can scan and make my family happy with results), so I am going to push it a stop (1st developer from 6 to 9 minutes @ 101.5F) and double the fix time (why not?) to see what happens.

If it happens to make some good slides, I'll keep the remainder of the kit, otherwise, down the drain...

Should know in about 30 minutes...

 

[Photo Engineer]

Increasing 1st developer will lower dmax by making the negative image more foggy. It will increase speed.

Increasing fix will probably have no effect.

PE

 

[Kino]

Inconclusive Results

Well, its my own fault, but the results are inconclusive.

I processed 2 more rolls, shot with 2 different point and shoot 35mm cameras we keep around the house to grab shots here and there

The film is all Kodak Ektachrome 160 but the cameras differ, so ...

One roll benefited from the 1 stop push (still slightly magenta) , one seems to have suffered (blacks are decidedly Olive).

I am thinking, dump it and start over with a fresh E6 kit.

 

[Photo Engineer]

Kino;

That olive look is typical of incomplete reversal in the reversal bath! I can clearly see it in the scans. Looks like the stannous chloride has gone bad or is too dilute.

You get part of a positive and part of a negative image in the darker tones.

PE