Dry Plate holders useable with wet-plate?

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TheFlyingCamera

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I just scored a set of full-plate holders, for glass plates. I know I can use them with film via inserts or mount the film on glass plates. Two questions then-

A: Can I use them without modification with wet-plate?

B: If I want to use them with film, since I have no sheaths, what thickness glass/aluminum do I need?
 

Ole

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A: I believe it can be done. Wet-plate holders are a little different, but it should work. If you don't mind the chemical stains, at least.

B: The thickness should be sufficient to get good effect from the pressure springs, but not enough to make it difficult to close the holder. It should also be strong enough not to bow out (too much) in the middle. So depending on the material, anything from 0.3mm (sheaths) to 3mm (plexi).
 

smieglitz

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They may work depending on style but won't be anywhere near as convenient as regular wet-plate holders which load from the back. You will also need to varnish the wooden surfaces thoroughly because the silver nitrate will wreak havoc on the wood in a very short time otherwise. I would also wax the darkslides before use.
 

Rob_5419

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A: Can I use them without modification with wet-plate?

Yes: although that is a perfectly swift method of destroying the plates ;(
B: If I want to use them with film, since I have no sheaths, what thickness glass/aluminum do I need?

2mm conventional picture glass works. It's straightforward:


http://plate-camera.livejournal.com/

There is no specific reason to mount the film onto plates: your bookform holders won't crimp and force the film out of its position as long as there a 2mm support. I use glass since it doesn't attract as much dust as cardboard or jam.
 

big_ben_blue

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2mm conventional picture glass works. It's straightforward:

2mm glass may be too much; I measured the glass of an old 1/2 plate, and it was much closer to 1mm (0.053").

Laquering an old holder would probably work in a pinch, but I could see issues with the holding spring and the holder interior gumming up in a short time. Cutting the septum (as outlined in a bunch of threads on Quinn Jacobson's site) appear to be a better solution. Well, that's what I am going to do soon (just about to get started in wetplate too).

Chris

PS: There's no chance in heaven or hell that I am going to sell the full plate sheaths in my life time, and I am planning to have a veeeeeeeeeeeeeeery long life :wink:
 

PHOTOTONE

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They "DID" make single plate film holders that resemble double film holders, but had a hinged door on the back that opened to insert the plate. Various frames came with them to accept smaller plates. The only problem is, that while they may look like 8x10 holders, they are slightly bigger and will not fit standardized 8x10 camera spring backs.
 

JG Motamedi

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As above, you can use dry-plate holders with wet-plate but you need to take certain precautions. You need to protect the wood, as it will slowly disintegrate because of the Silver Nitrate. The fabric in the light trap will also dissolve and there is not very much you can do about this.

"Oysters" are a serious problem with dry-plate holders. Oysters are the light-colored deposits of scum on the plate. As the plates slowly dry in the holder they wick moisture from the sides and rear of the plate towards the front. The moisture carries contaminants which cause oysters. The more contact your plate holder has with the plate the more likely you will have oysters. Dry-plate holders make contact all the way around the plate and on the back. Consequently you need to spend quite a bit of time making sure your plate and plate holder are clean.

One last point; by using a dry-plate holder in your GG back, you do take the risk that your holder will leak, leaving silver stains on your beautiful camera. The stains on my studio floor attest to this danger.

All this said, I use a 8x10 dry-plate holder for wet-plate all the time. I take the extra time to clean the holder and the rear of the plate before loading.
 
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JG Motamedi

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ps: dry-plates used glass which was significantly thinner than the standard "single" available today.
 

Ole

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ps: dry-plates used glass which was significantly thinner than the standard "single" available today.

... as I discovered when I tried to stuff a piece of glass into a Linhof Universal film & plate holder (mit Auswerfer)...
 

Harrigan

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I've converted several dry plate holders to regular film holders by inserting the proper thickness of material to put the film inthe correct plane. I did not use glass but rather black matt board of different thickness as glass is quite heavy. Granted this material is not ideal but since my full plate holders get limited use i've not had any problems with it. After securing the material into the "septum" on both sides I made small wood strips and glued them into the sides of the interior holder to hold the film down. On the fh in the photo I also modified the width of the holder to fit my century camera as full plate holders are all over the map in terms of size.
 

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David A. Goldfarb

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This looks like a good source of flat glass of various thicknesses--

http://www.howardglass.com/home.htm

I think PE has been using ordinary 2mm glass for his dryplate coating experiments, so it's probably worth getting some glass from the hardware store and seeing if it fits your holders. Dry plates seem like a more likely prospect for the future of hand coated silver gelatin negative material than film, since glass is much more widely available and used for a greater variety of purposes than suitable film substrates.
 

JG Motamedi

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Jason-

where/how can I get the thinner glass for dry-plate to use as a mounting surface so I can use film in my dry-plate holders and/or make dry-plates?

David's source looks good, but do try single thickness glass in your holders, I have a few holders which it will fit, and others which won't.

Unfortunately the single thickness glass does not fit in the wonderful Linhof plate/film holders which Ole mentions.
 
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