DP-1 Finder Help?

Tom1956 · Jun 27, 2014

Has anyone on here got advice on getting to the high/low pots on a Nikon DP-1 finder? I don't mean the meter adjust and battery adjust pots under the leather. I mean the other 2 pots setting the high and low ends of the meter. I've got one here that's accurate in the sunlight, but underexposes by 1 stop down around EV3, maybe even higher. Starts losing accuracy when you get it out of the bright sun into the shadows. Thanks.

shutterfinger · Jun 27, 2014

I think you need to spread one hand out on a solid, flat surface and hit each finger tip moderately hard with a 16 oz to 24 oz hammer then switch hands and repeat.
Once your fingers quit hurting so much load some film and go expose and process it then scan/print the good ones. Repeat, repeat, repeat.
Its OK if you want to wait until you get the meter working correctly first.

Tom1956 · Jun 27, 2014

shutterfinger said:
I think you need to spread one hand out on a solid, flat surface and hit each finger tip moderately hard with a 16 oz to 24 oz hammer then switch hands and repeat.
Once your fingers quit hurting so much load some film and go expose and process it then scan/print the good ones. Repeat, repeat, repeat.
Its OK if you want to wait until you get the meter working correctly first.

??? Well that was helpful. Thanks a lot.

shutterfinger · Jun 27, 2014

and now some more worthless information,
Google is your best friend:
seen this?
http://www.street-photo.fr/fr/images/docs/Nikon_F2_Finder_DP-1_Adjustment.pdf

Tom1956 · Jun 27, 2014

Thank you shutterfinger, but I have that link. See fig 3, right photo. Apparently you have to strip down the shutter speed dial and any other top-end gadgetry to get to the 2 pots in question, leaving you to do either a new CdS installation and ohmmeter blind set-up, or you have to do trial and error, reassemble everything, and check, then disassemble all that again, and again till you're in a good ballpark. I had rather hoped in simply popping the sheetmetal top of the finder and gaining access the easy way. Or am I mis-understanding the photo? It's not very clear. The text implies that a major stripdown is the way. I'd rather put it up on ebay and let some other schlub buy it. I know how to strip down the underside for a carbon-ring cleanup, but haven't gone in from the topside yet.
BTW--thank you for your reply.

Xmas · Jun 27, 2014

Replacement CdS cells may be a spares item they can go non linear with age.

Tom1956 · Jun 27, 2014

Xmas said:
Replacement CdS cells may be a spares item they can go non linear with age.

Yeah, don't I know it. In fact a search of my prior posts will bear me out as a hell-fire and damnation preacher of the gospel of cell linearity failure. My gut tells me one cell has stepped out-of-linear, and I'm lying to myself and cheating to make the needle say otherwise. I'd be a lot happier to get this Wong dude to send me a couple of new cells and let me handle it.

shutterfinger · Jun 27, 2014

Yes, looks like one has to disassemble, adjust, reassemble, test, repeat as necessary.
I think I'd pass unless I couldn't afford film and chemicals or didn't have a hammer. might even be tempted to hide the hammer so I wouldn't use it if I had one.

Tom1956 · Jun 27, 2014

So, a beautiflul black F2 Photomic off ebay for $80 turned out to be worth $80.

Xmas · Jun 27, 2014

Think you set up the low trim with a light box camera and lens and a multi meter set to current plot the current for each stop value now, adjust plot again etc.

If the readings are ok mid range you only tweak for low linearity...

You only need the lower part of meter on camera. And you need to not go below the meter reading range.

I'll post later when hangover is better.

edit you will need log log paper for a straight line graph I think or a calculator...

DP-1 Finder Help?

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