Just for curiosity -- did you find evidence of the tape that holds the head end of the film to the backing? Or was there tape at the tail end of the film? I ask because this sounds like what might happen if the film had gotten attached at the wrong end (or was loaded backward, i.e. reloading an exposed roll, but that seems less likely with an experienced 120 user).
They are simple enough so hardly anythiing that could be broken for such an event.
You and I may have different thresholds for simple!
A roll film auto-advance mechanism is not what I would consider simple, especially as I have had both a Kodak Medalist and a Yashicamat 124g turn out to be unusable specifically due to a problem in that mechanism that was not apparent from the outside. It's actually been bad enough that I wish there were "modern" or Rollei style TLR's (unit rack focusing, thumbwheel exposure controls, et cetera) with ruby windows and manual frame advancement. It just seems like the more reliable solution.
I just hope no undue strain was put on the gripping wheel mechanism...
You can use the red window on the Medalist for frame spacing, And disabling a defective counter system isn't hard if it is binding up[ the system. Well, fixing a defective counter system also isn't hard, but that's another day...A roll film auto-advance mechanism is not what I would consider simple, especially as I have had... a Kodak Medalist... turn out to be unusable specifically due to a problem in that mechanism that was not apparent from the outside.
Well, I guess one good thing is that you now have a roll of backing paper to use for testing the camera?
The D is a pretty basic mechanism inside. Do a test, but good chance that it will be fine.
You can use the red window on the Medalist for frame spacing, And disabling a defective counter system isn't hard if it is binding up[ the system. Well, fixing a defective counter system also isn't hard, but that's another day...
Ditch the Shanghai and switch to Ilford and Kodak. Yes they cost a bit more
Or use Fomapan or .EDU Ultra (same film, different box) -- barely more than Shanghai, much less than Kodak/Ilford, and in my experience (hundreds or rolls over the past twenty years) 100% reliable. I've seen QC complaints here, but never seen a roll in my own process that gave those problems.
I have never used .EDU Ultra or Fomapan so I do not have an opinion of them.
Never went back--my go-to cheap film since has been Arista/Foma. Chunky grain but no QC issues
Yeah. I think all Foma’s films are best shot at half box speed.Fomapan grain doesn't bother me, even for 35mm. It's what I have in my Watson loader right now... 200 or 100, I can't remember but I shoot the 200 @ 100 anyways.
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