Does one need a parallax correction plate when using WA lenses on a C3330f?

[chip j]

I've seen one of these on e-bay, but it was part of a $200 package. I have a thin aluminum mask that is supposed to be used with WA lenses, but haven't tried it yet. Any info on these accessories? Are they necessary? Thanks, Chip

 

[Rick A]

If you are talking about a "parramender" then, it all depends. If you are taking macro shots, then yes(maybe). I have a Mamiya C-220 and C-330, and never used one. I suppose it would be handy, but I see it as just another gimick. There are those that would say definitly yes, so it all comes down to, you decide what you need. I just measure my tripod heighth and add the difference between lenses after framing and focus. I guess if you found one cheap enough and used it often, it would be worth while to own. But then, I'm a cheapskate, YMMV.

 

[bernard_L]

Landscape; distant subject: no need.
Close subject (say 3-6 feet); What I do is frame, then just before tripping the shutter, shift the framing up by an amount, seen on the main subject, equal (approx) to the distance between the two lenses: now the taking lens is seeing the same as what the framing lens was seeing before. This takes care of framing in one plane, but not of parallax, which is the superposition (or lack of) of objects at different distances.
Macro: need a paramender. Have one, and, just like Rick, never used it. Maybe I should try macro with my C220; might be fun.
This said, the paramender has nothing to do with a "thin aluminum mask"; more like the rack & pinion center column of a tripod, without the tripod:/)

 

[chip j]

Yes, I have a Paramender 2, but this is a ground glass viewing screen designed, my camera store owner says, for up-close work. The aluminum mask seems to show a smaller picture area than would normally be seen. I know I used the 55mm and was surprised at how far away things seemed in the pic, vs what I saw on the {normal) ground glass}. Wasn't close-up, either.

 

[grahamp]

The Parallax correction plate provides adjusted exposure/parallax marks for the 65 and 55mm lenses. These cannot be dialed in to the built-in correction system. You can make your own using clear sheet that fits into the base of any of the finders. See http://grahampatterson.home.comcast.net/~grahampatterson/grahamp/mfaq/plate2.pdf for examples of the standard marks (for replacement screens), the 65.55, and grid lines.

There are sports finder masks which are 'thin aluminum masks', but you won't find any for the 65mm or 55mm. Older WLFs had a lens for the 65mm, but later ones would open to provide a 65mm view. There was no 55mm negative lens.

 

[chip j]

Thanks, graham; that sure explains it all. Chip

 

[mrosenlof]

Depends on your shooting distance. The separation of the taking and viewing lenses on the Mamiya camera is 50mm. So assuming perfect lens alignment, the taking lense sees 50mm less at the top then the viewing lens does. This is regardless of the distance to your subject. At long distances, the 50mm is nothing. When you're close, it starts to get significant. The correction plate shows you how much *more* than the normal parallax error you need to correct for when you have the camera set for the 80mm lens.

In my opinion, if you're close enough that the difference between the (say) 55 and 80mm parallax gets important, you'll be much happier with a paramender. It's much more precise. Tilting the camera upward is an approximation in any case. The paramender puts the taking lens in the place where the viewing lens was.

 

[xya]

I use the paramender since more than 30 years for all tripod work. it has just become a habit. you can frame so precisely, you'll never loose a mm of anything, no doubt ever. I just wouldn't take the risk.

 

[chip j]

Thanks, folks. I'll have to get instructions for my Paramender 2. The C330 should work just like a SLR then, but w/no DOF indication.