i have heard .. NEVER seen .. that a print left in fix too long will bleach the print ...
+1If there are too many prints in a tray of fixer, it can really impede chemical flow and lead to uneven and incomplete fixing.
And by the way, prints in fixer need agitation too!
i think that if a print was left in tthe fix too long it would reach a state of equilibrium, it woudn't kill the fix or the print
i have heard .. NEVER seen .. that a print left in fix too long will bleach the print ...
=== added later ===
if it is a shared darkroom maybe the person doesn't want his work thrashed about by others who might not
care for and treat his prints the way he wants them to be treated, so the shorter time in the fix, the better.
i remember gang darkrooms were a nightmare, not only in the fixing tray, but the rotary washer that students loved to
watch spin @ 50 MPH and damage every print in the cage.
My main concern for leaving prints in fixer for extended periods of time is that it will take longer to effectively wash the paper, especially if you are planning to tone the print, or achieve archival quality.
According to Ilford's datasheet for MG FB IV paper: "There is no benefit in extending fixation beyond the recommended time; some loss of print quality might be seen when long fixing times are given due to image etching".
Also, leaving RC paper immersed in chemicals or wash water for longer than necessary is never recommended because it can cause edge penetration and print curl.
I don't think that leaving prints in the fixer will have any effect on the life of the fixer itself. Leaving chemicals sitting out in open trays is never a good idea due to exposure to air. I pour them back into the storage bottles when I'm finished printing for the night.
If there are too many prints in a tray of fixer, it can really impede chemical flow and lead to uneven and incomplete fixing.
And by the way, prints in fixer need agitation too!
No because, the proper fixing time is the time to remove all unexposed and undeveloped silver but excessive fixing times will bleach highlights.
Yes, a print can be over fixed; an overfixed print suffers from bleached highlights and midtowns and the fixer will get harder torahs out in the final wash; strong and short fixing is recommended over weak and long fixing for complete fixing andease of washing.I wonder? but in a shared setting it can get quite crowded in the fixer if everyone jsut left their masterpieces in the fixer longer than it had to be there.
Curious, can a print be over fixed?
What fixer and who prescribed 3,4 minutes? I use sodium thiosulfate (hypo) fixer and fix fiber base prints for 10 minutes. I own prints that are 100 years old and were processed this way and they look new, except for the clothes styles that were in vogue at the time.. I think your reasoning is probably correct. and I would not consider my prints in my fixer as properly fixed at 3,5 minutes. I have read everything that I could find on fixing and have not found a really valid reason to change. If it is a "sin" to under or over fix, over is the lesser of the two.....Regards!Hi all,
A few weeks ago, a member at my local darkroom got a little upset because some people were leaving their prints in the fixer longer than the prescribed 2-3 minutes. He was claiming that doing so was “killing” the fixer.
From a pure chemistry standpoint, is this correct? My understanding is that the fixer is typically a salt solution that reacts with the remaining silver halide on the paper. The 2-3 minutes prescribed time most likely was determined to be the required time for 99.9...% or so of the remaining halides to be removed, and thus leaving the print in the fixer longer than necessary wouldn’t do much to the fixing solution since there would be little to no reagent (ie silver halides) remaining.
Now obviously in a shared workspace, people should be mindful of other people working and not leave their prints in the baths longer than needed and all that, but I’m just curious as to whether the grumpy dude was correct from a pure chemistry point of view.
Thanks!
Prints left in the fixer too long will bleach, it happens very quickly with warm=tone papers particularly when developed for greater warmth. In a Sodium Thiosulphate based fixer this is slow but in an Ammonium Thiosulphate based rapid fixer it happens in minutes, with fresh fixer there's a noticeable bleaching of delicate highlight tons in about 5 minutes, there's also a shift in image colour.
Ian
Not sure about the answer to OP’s question, but leaving fiber based papers in fixer too long can result in fixer becoming imbedded within the fibers of the paper rather than just fixing the emulsion. This can make washing very, very difficult and cause deterioration of print as time goes by.
I agree, both Kodak and Ilford offer very reliable process information on their sites.I follow the instructions. I use Kodak F6 two bath for fiber base. I do the Ilford 30 seconds in fresh strong rapid fixer for RC. I agitate constantly in fixer. If I am printing multiple sheets I don't over do it. I always use Kodak HCA, and I tone in KRST.
The old Kodak books from the 40's through the 80's are a font of wisdom . Ilford has really stepped up their website. Ilford has done their homework, any doubts that would be my default recommendation.
Not long ago I forgot to clear up and fell asleep with some test strips left in a tray of fixer. The next day there was no noticeable change to the print.
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