does edwal hypo check work on ilfod rapid fixer?

I have heard conflicting things.

I prob should throw out the fixer I have now (only using for prints...I use separate fixer for film and print). But, the hypo check is not milky (are we talking chalk white?).

I also read on the Ilford Rapid Fixer bottle that mixed solution (1+3) should only be used for 7days? Not sure what 1+ 3 is in reference to...But, I have used my 1 +4 for more than that and it seemed alright...

I did the film leader test on the fix and it took about 2 mins to clear. I believe this is too long. I did not do the film leader test when the batch was new, so i do not know if 2 mins is 2 to 3 times longer than original time to clear for 1 + 4 solution...I have not been collecting my leaders, and I know best to try and clear the same film brand...sorta a hassle , and so i wonder i the hypo check should work?

Never heard that before, my Hypam or Ilford Rapid fix lasts months made up and stored in a bottle for films. !+3 is the dilution with water 1 part fixer 3 parts water.

Ian

and yes the hypo check will work.
there is a distinct cloudy swrill that last a very few seconds, but easy to see and id
is the two minutes for film which means the fix time would be 4 minutes.
we use the "mixture" for a lot longer than 7 days with no ill affect the same as Ian.

i do keep the film fixer separate from the paper fixer.

when doing archival printing; i count the number of prints based on paper surface size and then when it reaches it max it is saved for RC test prints until it test "Finished."

Wirelessly posted (BlackBerry 8300: BlackBerry9000/4.6.0.185 Profile/MIDP-2.0 Configuration/CLDC-1.1 VendorID/102)

The rule of thumb is you can keep using your mixed fixer until it takes twice as long for the film to clear as it did when the fixer was fresh.

So if your film originally took 1 minute to clear, and it now takes 2, you would discard the fixer at that point. If using hypo check, discard it when you see the white precipitate. You will know it when you see it.

ann said:

And yes the hypo check will work. There is a distinct cloudy
swerl that lasts a very few seconds, but easy to see and id

is the two minutes for film which means the fix time would
be 4 minutes. we use the "mixture" for a lot longer than 7
days with no ill affect the same as Ian.

i do keep the film fixer separate from the paper fixer.

when doing archival printing; i count the number of prints
based on paper surface size and then when it reaches it
max it is saved for RC test prints until it test "Finished."

Click to expand...

That fixer check is similar to Kodak's FT-1 test; both
are solutions of potassium iodide which when added to
a used fixer may produce a precipitate of silver iodide.
It could be a good test of a fixer's remaining strength
if it were better quantified. Who knows the strength
of their off-the-shelf-supply or trust it's method of
application. The test's application varies from one
source to another. The method quoted above is
not even close to Kodak's own FT-1 test.

Fix times for film and paper vary; the halides of silver
present, the amount present, hardening of the emulsions
or lack there of, all are variables. I do not believe a one-
size-fits-all approach is adequate.

Square footage is NOT a test of the fixer's remaining
capacity. A fixer can go DEAD with nothing going through
it. Many work with their fixers in varying ways; in and
out of the bottle, the tray, with waters which vary in
composition. Square footage as a method should
only be used where established materials and
procedures are in use. Dan

dancqu said:

That fixer check is similar to Kodak's FT-1 test; both
are solutions of potassium iodide which when added to
a used fixer may produce a precipitate of silver iodide.
It could be a good test of a fixer's remaining strength
if it were better quantified. Who knows the strength
of their off-the-shelf-supply or trust it's method of
application. The test's application varies from one
source to another. The method quoted above is
not even close to Kodak's own FT-1 test.

Fix times for film and paper vary; the halides of silver
present, the amount present, hardening of the emulsions
or lack there of, all are variables. I do not believe a one-
size-fits-all approach is adequate.

Square footage is NOT a test of the fixer's remaining
capacity. A fixer can go DEAD with nothing going through
it. Many work with their fixers in varying ways; in and
out of the bottle, the tray, with waters which vary in
composition. Square footage as a method should
only be used where established materials and
procedures are in use. Dan

Click to expand...

The only real test of a fixer is to take a short piece of film, like a leader or old expired and unused film, drop it in the fixer, check the clear time, fix for twice as long, if the time is too long, then replace the fixer. This is tougher for paper fixer, where it can be difficult to determine the clear time. Fixer though is one of those things where if you know it should last for so long, using it for a considerably shorter time is better then trying to stretch it out. Thinking though, suppose you took a sheet of photo paper, put a penny every 2cm or so, then expose it to a very bright light, the emulsion will turn darker on it's own, cut it into squares, and keep it in an old paper box. Before starting a session, you do the same test, when the circle from the penny disappears, that's your clear time. if it takes too long, replace the fixer.

edwals hypo check is a stong potassium salt.
potassium salt goes milky when in contact with a certain amount of silver.
you will get a false reading if you do not take about 1 oz of fixer out of your
bath, put a few drops of the edwals in there and mix it into solution with the fixer.
the instructions are printed on the edwals' bottle ...

often times if you are using a rapid fixer it goes milky when there is still life left in it.
i use sprint speed fixer and the folks at sprint told me not to trust the hypo check but
to keep track of my clip test ...
2 baths, 1 new, one older, when first one takes 2x the original clear time, recycle the 2nd bath
and make a fresh first bath, moving the #1 to #2 ...

never dump your spent fixer down the drain, if you have metal pipes
it will corrode them, in addtion, the silver considered
a heavy metal / toxic waste / environmental hazard.
get a silver recovery unit ( trickle tank for ion transfer ),
a cathode ( like a "silver magnet" for electrolytic transfer )
or pay a waste hauler ( for peace of mind transfer ) ...

good luck!