Actually, this particular image was made more in keeping with Mortenson's methods than with his own. Since he couldn't find his exposure meter, he computed the correct exposure using the Exposure Formula and the luminance of the moon, which he wanted to be Zone VII and which he knew. (250 candles/square foot). The moon is also arguably the item of central interest in the picture. He let the chips fall where they may viz a vis the foreground shadows (which he intensified in selenium some years later). He used water bath development (D-23 if I remember correctly) which also implies development by inspection to keep from blowing the highlights in the clouds. All this is documented in Examples The Making of 40 Photographs. In any case, it's hardly a good example of the Zone System axiom that one should always 'expose for the shadows and develop for the highlights'. Unless you consider Zone VII a shadow.RAP said:If that is the case, then his method has very limited applications in the field. AA did not have a chance to bracket Moonrise Hernandez. In fact, he didn't even use an exposure meter, he couldn't find it!
...so I guess no one here actually does this, then. Guess I'll have to try it "cold" -- I'm curious as to how much of Mortenson's "look" comes from this development and how much from his specific abrasion and lighting methods.garryl said:Mortensen would base his exposure off a metered bright highlight reading on the forehead of the model(possibly a Zonie 71/2-8) and modify this with experience(he didn't entirely trust lightmeters).He would develope to "gamma infinity"(just till develope fog started to set in).
Ole said:I "accidentally" printed a negative today which was "Mortensoned": Exposed for the highlights, developed until the fog started getting visible (by inspection).
It's great. That's all I'm willing to say about it right now
garryl said:You do realize you're going to have to post it now?
kwmullet said:Given the absence of LF film >iso400, would it be reasonable to say that the Mortensen method might be one way to find out what my greatest working exposure index between 240 and 8000 might be? Is the goal with this method to develop the film as long as possible until just before you get to an unacceptable level of base + fog?
.......
Final question (for this post, anyway) -- what kind of film would likely yield a higher effective speed: the one with the highest ISO rating, or the one with the lowest base + fog?
-KwM-
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