I have a Luna Pro I bought new in the early 80s. I traded it to a friend and he says it's underexposing B & W film compared to his cell phone meter.
My friend finds that getting his phone out all the time is a hassle. I hardly used my Luna pro--it was in it's case in the dark almost all the time.How off is it? is the error linear?
Ive got many luna pros and an assortment of other brands that are over 30 years old... they all work just fine.
If I compared my meters to each other, Im sure many wont agree. I just compensate via ASA setting.
My old Westons have all gone blind... but that is typical of that type of cell.
If you feel your cell phone meter is a defacto last word... then why not use the phone all the time?
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If it was losing sensitivity, it would be overexposing. If it has alkaline cells in, it would be undrexposing.I have a Luna Pro I bought new in the early 80s. I traded it to a friend and he says it's underexposing B & W film compared to his cell phone meter.
Mine is still accurate with the Gossen adapter and silver cells.
But before blaming the equipment, are you sure your buddy knows the dial and how to properly meter? Often these are the bigger issue to resolve.
I have a Luna Pro I bought new in the early 80s. I traded it to a friend and he says it's underexposing B & W film compared to his cell phone meter.
Not just that... not too long ago on some forum or another there was a similar question and the user did not know that the dome needed to be slid to the side for a reflected metering.Excellent point. Two meters with differing acceptance angles can give very different exposures for the same scene, as well.
What kind of cell phone does he have, and what app is he using to meter? The problem with light meter apps is that each camera is different and the app may not be written specifically for the camera used in that particular cell phone. So it may show close values, but not the correct ones. I would compare that Luna Pro to another known good meter first before assuming it's a problem with that meter.
CdS cells tend to age pretty well provided they aren't exposed to excessive heat. Age and exposure to light doesn't affect them a great deal. However, this light meter was one of the first to use CdS cells, so I don't know how reliable the early ones were. In all honesty, I would probably check the rest of the circuit out for problems before assuming it's the CdS cell. They're not the most robust electrical component in the world, but they're not as fragile as selenium cells or many other components can be. There also may be a way to adjust it's sensitivity, by way of a potentiometer or replacing a resistor.
Good to know! I know sometimes early technology can have bugs that need to be worked out that no ones realizes until they've been on the market for a few years. Then again, some stuff comes out right the first time, and people tweak it over time (usually cost cutting reasons) and they become less reliable than the early ones.They're extremely reliable. As for checking the rest of the circuit, there really is none, just a switch and some calibration potentiometers, no other active components whatever. What can happen regarding the potentiometers, is oxidation can build up on the moving contacts. Moving the potentiometer arm over it's travel, then returning it to the original position will cure this.
But and however - it needs to first be established if it's the meter or the I-thingy.
Good to know! I know sometimes early technology can have bugs that need to be worked out that no ones realizes until they've been on the market for a few years. Then again, some stuff comes out right the first time, and people tweak it over time (usually cost cutting reasons) and they become less reliable than the early ones.
And by rest of the circuit, I was meaning wires, solder connections, switches, pots, and all of that stuff. I've made quite a bit of money buying and reselling once dead electronics by reflowing cold solder joints, spraying deoxit on potentiometers and switchs, or cleaning corroded battery connectors with vinegar. A lot of people will throw out anything electrical as soon as they stop working, even when often times the repair is simple. And even when the repair isn't so simple, I studied electrical engineering in college, so I'm pretty good with anything electrical that isn't software related.
It does. That screw is to set the galvanometer to zero, it has nothing to do with calibration of the electrical circuits.I believe that the light meter has an adjustment screw on the bottom.
I believe that the light meter has an adjustment screw on the bottom.
Yes, it is for the offset of the sero point iirc. I tried to use it to compensate the error, but it didn't give enorgh compensation...
It, per the meter's instructions, should be set to zero with the battery removed from the meter. It isn't intended to calibrate the meter, merely to set the galvanometer to zero.
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