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DIY 6x6 super wide camera

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OAPOli

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The idea is to make a fully manual Lomo LC-A 120, which has no control on exposure and tends to have issues with the film advance.

The lens is extracted from the Instax "Magellan" camera, which uses a glass 4.5/38 lens. It's safe to presume this is the same lens as the LC-A.

The Magellan is easy to disassemble, but the lens is glued + screwed into the shutter. I printed a holder to secure the shutter in a vise and used a nasty wrench to remove the lens. A custom circle clamp would have been better.

PXL_20251210_161837461.jpg


The tiny lens will go in front of this Seiko shutter from the 3.5/105 Mamiya TLR lens. It has threaded posts for the aperture ring that will be repurposed to hold the lens. By luck, the lens drops into the hole with its flange spacing the rear of the lens just shy of the shutter blades.

PXL_20251210_164343046.jpg


The shutter/lens combo was first adapted to a digital camera to check the image quality, estimate the back focus distance (approx. 29mm from shutter mount to image) and to recalibrate the aperture scale. Another lucky coincidence is that I can use the original scale, after dividing the numbers by 2.

PXL_20251213_141206519.jpg


The focusing helicoid is from a Bronica 2.8/50 that had a faulty shutter. It was substantially modified on a lathe to accommodate the short back focus.

PXL_20251218_150851740.jpg


I'll be using a Hasselblad A24 film back. The little hook that stops the counter at frame 1 was disabled. The film is advanced via the winder; you need to stop once the exposure flag triggers. The winding is not very smooth. A C12 back would be better I think. Here is the 3d-printed body. The lens is attached on the part on the right, which latches onto the back. The part on the left has the cold shoe and tripod mount, and is clamped to the other. It was remixed from https://www.printables.com/model/247783-hasselblad-film-magazine-mount-pinhole-camera-matt

PXL_20251218_153003019.jpg


Here is the camera: very compact!

PXL_20251218_194343959.jpg


For the nerds out there, I checked the lens parallelism with this flimsy jig. Within 0.07mm after accounting for the flex of the glass support.

PXL_20251218_195704224.jpg


Here is the test film. I think there is a small light leak. Sharpness and coverage are good. There are small lines between the frames, caused by the acute cone of light that exits the lens and that exposes the film from under the film rollers in the back.

PXL_20251219_193045174.jpg
 
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OAPOli

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Thanks everyone. Here are a few samples.

DSC09832-1.jpg

DSC09839-1.jpg

DSC09840-1.jpg

DSC09841-1.jpg

DSC09842-1.jpg


The lens is okay; you get what you pay for. From f/11 it's sharp on centre but still lacking on the edges. Forget about f/4.5 or f/5.6.

On the penultimate image you can see the light leak. Something similar was found on two other images. It's really odd because it uniformly spills on the rebate area, meaning the issue is in the back. But I have used that back recently without issues...
 
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OAPOli

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Ok I found the light leak. Added a custom winding knob to the back and a panoramic mask for the body so you can alternate between 6x6 and 24x56 (wind a half-frame).

PXL_20260102_170628023.jpg

DSC09876-1.jpg

DSC09879-1.jpg

DSC09882-1.jpg
 

Jarno

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Very cool! Awesome that you are able to rework the focusing helicoid of that Bronica lens, admittedly not something everybody has in their parts drawer, but it does make one eye those bottom of the barrel thrift store finds differently.
 
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OAPOli

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@Jarno I prefer re-using "proper" lens helicoids for camera builds that use short focal length lenses. The thread pitch is much smaller than the generic M65 or M42 you can find online. That allows for a workable focus throw to get to the minimum focusing distance. In previous builds I was able to use smaller helicoids from 135-format lenses. But to avoid vignetting I needed something big. This Bronica part *almost* vignettes with the lens wide-open.

Btw I need to re-test the lens parallelism. In the latest roll one side of the image was noticeably worse than the other. The parallelism is critical for short lenses, which have a shallow depth of focus. I think I got it to within 0.02mm but I'll need to check with film.
 
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