I am looking for advice about changing the light source on a 5x4 enlarger that I made 30 years ago. I fitted it with a fluorescent 38watt 2D light, specifically because this would give off no heat and would allow me to use a glassless negative carrier without risk of the negaaive popping.
This light source has three problems which I have put up with over the years, but I am now looking to change the light source, and will appreciate any advice to this end.
The problems:
1 When switched on the light takes about 40 seconds to reach full strength. I can just about put up with this but it prevents me using a timer, and in effect, means the light must be left on permanently throughout the printing session.
2 With my 6x9 Magnifax enlarger, with an incandescent bulb, if you make prints from the same negative across the range of Muliicontrast filter grades -and keep the same time throughout - contrast increases as you you go from 0 to 5, but a certain mid-tone remains constant; i.e. it is the shadows and highlights that change. But with my DIY 5x4 enlarger with fluorescent light, this doesn't happen. A certain highlight remains the same (if print time is kept the same) and everything from upper mid-tones right down to shadows change. I can just about put up with this but would really prefer not to have to switch from one system to the other.
3 The big problem is the way contrast changes across the range of filter grades. With the Magnifax, and other enlargers, the change in contrast is about the same when going from 00 to 0, as when going from 0 to 1/2, or 1/2 to 1, etc. right up to the higher grades. So you can look at a print , decide it need a bit more contrast, and move to the next half grade up. But I can't do this with my diy 5x4 enlarger. From 00 to 0 there is hardly any increase in contrast. From 0 to 1/2 there is a bit more, but not much. From 1/2 to 1 there is a bit more, and so on up to grade 2, after which contrast change gradually gets less. In other words there is a big jump (more than a normal 1/2 grade) between 11/2 and 2, and from 2 to 21/2, and gradually less of a jump as you go to the higher or lower contrast grades. As will be imagined this presents real problems when printing.
Will changing the colour of the light improve matters? I notice 2D fluorescent lights are now available in "extra warm white", "standard white" and "cool white". ( I have no idea which mine is )
Or will it be a better option to change the light source completely? To LEDs perhaps?
Alan
This light source has three problems which I have put up with over the years, but I am now looking to change the light source, and will appreciate any advice to this end.
The problems:
1 When switched on the light takes about 40 seconds to reach full strength. I can just about put up with this but it prevents me using a timer, and in effect, means the light must be left on permanently throughout the printing session.
2 With my 6x9 Magnifax enlarger, with an incandescent bulb, if you make prints from the same negative across the range of Muliicontrast filter grades -and keep the same time throughout - contrast increases as you you go from 0 to 5, but a certain mid-tone remains constant; i.e. it is the shadows and highlights that change. But with my DIY 5x4 enlarger with fluorescent light, this doesn't happen. A certain highlight remains the same (if print time is kept the same) and everything from upper mid-tones right down to shadows change. I can just about put up with this but would really prefer not to have to switch from one system to the other.
3 The big problem is the way contrast changes across the range of filter grades. With the Magnifax, and other enlargers, the change in contrast is about the same when going from 00 to 0, as when going from 0 to 1/2, or 1/2 to 1, etc. right up to the higher grades. So you can look at a print , decide it need a bit more contrast, and move to the next half grade up. But I can't do this with my diy 5x4 enlarger. From 00 to 0 there is hardly any increase in contrast. From 0 to 1/2 there is a bit more, but not much. From 1/2 to 1 there is a bit more, and so on up to grade 2, after which contrast change gradually gets less. In other words there is a big jump (more than a normal 1/2 grade) between 11/2 and 2, and from 2 to 21/2, and gradually less of a jump as you go to the higher or lower contrast grades. As will be imagined this presents real problems when printing.
Will changing the colour of the light improve matters? I notice 2D fluorescent lights are now available in "extra warm white", "standard white" and "cool white". ( I have no idea which mine is )
Or will it be a better option to change the light source completely? To LEDs perhaps?
Alan