Divided D23 Question

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Saganich

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After running a couple dozen rolls through a dd23 process (d23 and borax) a question came to mind: Should I be rinsing the film between the d23 and the borax? Does rinsing affect the secondary developement? My intuition tells me they are seperate processes, like using two different developers, so rinsing between souldn't matter.

Chris
 

Ole

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The second bath activates developer absorbed by the emulsion from the first bath. So yes, it matters very much indeed. Never wash between steps in a two-bath developer!
 
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Saganich

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Thanks, My developing times then are good for d23 alone, which, I have to say is giving me damn good results.
Chris
 

clogz

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Hello Chris,

Could you give some film-D23 combinations with dev. times?

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5.5 minutes with Plus X- 35mm at 68 deg, No second bath

3/3 with carbonate in the second bath, not borax for plus x
4/3 for tri x - carbonate second bath ( this used to make georgous Tri X )

I wish to caution you this does not work as well as it did 20 years ago due to thinner emulsions or some other change. You can somewhat make up for it by increasing the amount of metol in the developer. I can not get what I used to get however with the two bath.
 

Roger Hicks

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Ronald Moravec said:
5.5 minutes with Plus X- 35mm at 68 deg, No second bath

3/3 with carbonate in the second bath, not borax for plus x
4/3 for tri x - carbonate second bath ( this used to make georgous Tri X )

I wish to caution you this does not work as well as it did 20 years ago due to thinner emulsions or some other change. You can somewhat make up for it by increasing the amount of metol in the developer. I can not get what I used to get however with the two bath.

I'll second this point about changes. In the early 70s I used the classic Leitz 2-bath with Ilford HP5 (pre-Plus in those days -- may even have been HP4 for all I remember). Then when I re-tried it in the 90s I found it a waste of time. Very many old techniques -- especially 2-bath and water-bath -- offer little or no advantage, and sometimes disadvantages, with modern emulsions. Almost all effects can be duplicated via more dilute developers.

Cheers,

Roger (www.rogerandfrances.com)
 

jim appleyard

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FWIW, I've had very good results from D2D in Anchell's "Darkroom Cookbook". You can vary the amount of carbonate, etc., that you put in Bath B to suit different films.
 

Ole

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FP4+ in D23+Borax has saved the day for me on one occasion with extreme contrast. I think I gave it 3+3 at about 20C...
 

blackmelas

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In response to emulsion changes, Barry Thornton published an update of Stoeckler 2 bath which I gather is close to divided D23. I've tried his Thornton 2 bath with FP4+ and it was an instant hit. I do 4min in bath A with two inversions every minute and 4min in bath B with two inversions at 2 minutes. I've also tried EFKE 25 and Pan F but less successfully.
Here are some links but he also published it in "Edge of Darkness."
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John Bartley

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My "standard" development for PlusX-Aero (aerial roll film) when metered at iso=25 is a one minute presoak followed by five minutes in "A" and four minutes in "B"
 
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Saganich

Saganich

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I've been using a formula heavy on the metol and light on the borax for triX. For no particular reason I rinsed out the film before the borax. My dev times were long compared to other folks using dd23. I didn't think much of it untill I cought myself rinsing between baths and thought, hmmm.

I use 7.5g metol to 100g sodium sulfite per liter of tapwater. According to my notes the last triX roll I ran in D23 1:0, ASA400, 22C, 11min. I am a light agitator, initial 30s, then 5 seconds per minute. The previous roll I ran 24C for 9 min. After development I fill and dump the tank once with water and used borax solution of 2g per liter, same agitation, for 3 minutes generally. I replenish the stock with Balanced alkali replenisher: 10g metol,100g sodium sulfite, 20 grams kodalk to a liter of water. I replenish the bottle before pouring the used d23 back and then I pour the developer back into the bottle only to the indicated original level and discard any leftover. I use about 22ml per roll of film (36 exposure or 120 roll). All in Anchell. I choose a 2g borax solution because of my previous experience with Beutler. The 10g of Sodium Carbonate seemed to make the Beutler too hot, too much contrast, too sensitive to agitation, and difficult to control. I thought a d23 with a milder accelerant would be more practical.

I've only performed one test DD23 1:0, 24C, 7min, Borax 3min. Bd+f 0.21, ZI 0.06, ZII 0.17, ZVIII 1.06. About N-2 contraction. At 9min I get about N-1 with a full speed which suits me.

With trix in Hc110 I get the same numbers and above ASA250 Dilution I:41, 9min 22C. I have to drop the speed that much to get the same shadow detail.

As far as times and films here is what I have for d23:

D23 1:0, TriX ASA400, 9minutes 24C, 11min 22C. 2-3min borax 2g/liter (I rinsed the film once so I dont know to what extent the worked.)

D23 1:1, FP4, ASA100, 14min, 22C, N-1, 17 min, N.

D23 1:0, EFKE 100R, 10 min, 22C, N dev.

Chris S
 
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