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Disposable syringes with thin cannulas for placing liquids

Out here in the Wild West, it's easy to get a wide variety of syringes at veterinarian supply stores -- and support local businesses.

Perhaps the best thing about Vet shops is that they have a good supply of BIG, THICK needles (for BIG animals). This makes thicker liquids (Rapid fix, etc.) easier to handle -- and they have JUMBO-sized syringes (sizes you would never use on a human!!!).

Always take a file to the tip of the needle before using -- to flatten it out. After all, they are designed to pierce skin VERY easily -- and they will if you are not careful.
 
I found oils and various thinners like alcohol, acetone etc can swell or soften the rubber so I use the glass ones.

 
For my use, I buy from Amazon "art & craft syringes" that have blunt tips instead of sharp tips. This way I can avoid stabbing myself, while still get small enough droplets (1ml).
 


I also have a set of oilers in different sizes for applying small amounts of oil. To do this, simply dip the tip in a little oil.



Here it is used on the mirror box of the Nikon F4.
 
Is this the mechanism that stops the aperture lever at the correct place?
 
ic-racer said:
I like those!
Click to expand...

Oiler, Swiss Set Style Dip 4 in Plastic

Have flat steel tips for picking up oil and depositing on touch. Plastic handles are non-rolling, and color coded for quick identification. Dust caps keep tips clean. Flat steel tips for picking up oil and depositing on touch Plastic handles are non-rolling Color coded for quick identification...
www.micro-tools.com

 


And these plastic foam sticks can even withstand acetone for a short time, in my experience.

Ideal for cleaning, I use them in large quantities.

Also available in a wide selection on Amazon.
 
Andreas Thaler said:
I can't say, but it's plausible with the sprocket. The infamous wheel turns a photointerruptor (the black wheel with recesses behind it).

The beam of light that is interrupted sits like a fork underneath. It can be seen in the photo.
Click to expand...

You may have seen in another thread I have a N75 that looks un-used with a fault in that area. I'm still trying to figure out how it works for there may be a way to repair it. For example, why would a late model camera that looks un-used have a fault? It is a $9 camera, so I'm more interested in figuring out how it works.
 

How do you go about troubleshooting?
 
I has been written that there is an electro magnet that instantly stops the aperture lever at the correct location. Apparently this can fail.
I also collect and repair electric guitars. The guitar pickup is like an electromagnet but for sensing only. Anyway, there are no moving parts, almost always failure is because the fine wire wrapped around the steel core is broken somewhere. These can even be re-wound.

Another possibility the electromagnet is too far away (broken plastic or glue). I'll check for that too.

If all of that is OK then there may be an optical sensor, so I'd like to check that.
 
  • Romanko
  • Deleted
  • Reason: irrelevant

Keep us updated, please!
 

Great!

And until now I thought that such soldering was always perfect.

This gives me hope for my F3AF, whose display no longer shows reasonable values.

Post in thread 'Nikon F3 and special models: Care, service and repair'
https://www.photrio.com/forum/threa...s-care-service-and-repair.206327/post-2790791

Tutorial Nikon F3(AF): Replacing the LCD

On the Nikon F3 and its versions, the LCD that is reflected in the viewfinder can fail partially or completely. Corrosion of the LCD connections could be a cause, or the LCD sandwich no longer seals tightly; black spots can also appear that make the digits unreadable. The only solution here is...
www.photrio.com
 
They
ic-racer said:
I like those!
Click to expand...

Looks like "Swiss oilers" for watchmakers.

Buy full sets of four probes, the job will thank you by being that much easier to complete.

Avoid any probes with burrs and lose fibers.

Cheers.
 
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