Hi everybody, I want to share a new process, which involves direct "iron gall ink" print without the bleaching of cyanotype etc.
Short process description:
1. Sensitize suitable paper with ferric oxalate [only ferric oxalate, nothing else...]
2. Expose the paper under negative and UV light [UV light produces insoluble Iron(II) oxalate]
3. Wash the paper in water for couple of minutes [this removes remaining soluble Iron(III) oxalate, but the insoluble Iron(II) oxalate remains on the paper]
4. Oxidize iron using hydrogen peroxide (1-3%), couple of minutes... [to oxidize Iron(II) to Iron(III) ==> Iron(II) gal ink is soluble in water, and would be washed out, Iron(III) gal ink is not soluble, stays in paper...]
5. Quickly wash the paper in water to remove peroxide
6. Develop image in tannic acid bath (I am using sumac leaves, but any source of tannic acid/tannins should work similarly to toning of cyanotype) [this step converts the Iron(III) ions to insoluble iron gal ink and full image appears].
The attached photo shows result/test prints, on the top is the process described above (i.e. oxidation in step 4 using hydrogen peroxide, best result...), in the middle is step 4 oxidation performed using potassium permanganate (incomplete oxidation, manganese oxide stains etc...), and in the bottom the yellow/brown test print shows the iron oxidation using heat (in kitchen oven 30 minutes at 220 Celsius == does not work very well, the paper gives up before the iron... - this print is not yet developed in tannic acid bath show on the left).
Short process description:
1. Sensitize suitable paper with ferric oxalate [only ferric oxalate, nothing else...]
2. Expose the paper under negative and UV light [UV light produces insoluble Iron(II) oxalate]
3. Wash the paper in water for couple of minutes [this removes remaining soluble Iron(III) oxalate, but the insoluble Iron(II) oxalate remains on the paper]
4. Oxidize iron using hydrogen peroxide (1-3%), couple of minutes... [to oxidize Iron(II) to Iron(III) ==> Iron(II) gal ink is soluble in water, and would be washed out, Iron(III) gal ink is not soluble, stays in paper...]
5. Quickly wash the paper in water to remove peroxide
6. Develop image in tannic acid bath (I am using sumac leaves, but any source of tannic acid/tannins should work similarly to toning of cyanotype) [this step converts the Iron(III) ions to insoluble iron gal ink and full image appears].
The attached photo shows result/test prints, on the top is the process described above (i.e. oxidation in step 4 using hydrogen peroxide, best result...), in the middle is step 4 oxidation performed using potassium permanganate (incomplete oxidation, manganese oxide stains etc...), and in the bottom the yellow/brown test print shows the iron oxidation using heat (in kitchen oven 30 minutes at 220 Celsius == does not work very well, the paper gives up before the iron... - this print is not yet developed in tannic acid bath show on the left).
Thanks!
