Digitizing a Daguerrotype

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carioca

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Hi all,

I have a Daguerrotype that I had made many years back in a workshop that is starting to show signs of deterioration.
Can anyone recommend a method to digitize one (scanner/digital camera...),

Thanks for your input.

Sidney
 

cowanw

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I digitized the daguerreotypes in my collection and published some of them in a book Eleventyone portraits. I started with a long tele 400 mm lens on a digital camera 22 Mb's. I set the daguerreotype up on a music stand and lit them bilaterally by softbox at 45 degrees to get even illumination with out reflection. In an otherwise dark room with black curtains behind. I set the camera up on a tripod beyond the softboxes sufficient to fill the frame. The results were reflection free.
Now I have a enlarger stand and digitize with a 100mm macro lens and 4 lamps set at 45 degrees to each quadrant for even non reflective lighting.
Depth of field and Fstop may depend on the case or framing. I have merged two images to get the frame and daguerreotype both well focused on occasion. But if the only plane is flat a couple of stops above wide open is good and as long a time as required.
Shooting straight on generally works well on vintage daguerreotypes but on one the colouring was definitely one directional and I had to keystone the image to find the best angle and correct in Photoshop.
As far as your deterioration is your daguerreotyped sealed with glass and proper tape?
PS wonderful portraits in your site. If you ever have a spare plate you could do a great favour and photograph a colour wheel as a comparison of how Ortho work handles colour.
 
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carioca

carioca

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Thank you for your thorough explanation and advice, much appreciated 🙂

Regarding deterioration of my Dag, yes, it is has a cardboard mat frame and is covered with a glass plate + white paper tape around the edges.
It was done in a workshop in Brazil, and I believe the material involved is not archival (acid free, etc.).

Thanks for the kudos regarding my portraits.

PS... I didn't understand the spare plate/color wheel thing you mentioned in the end 🤔

Sidney
 

cowanw

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Acid free may be a problem as most are buffered and I am led to believe the Calcium Carbonate buffering is an issue with fading. There are very pricey non buffered acid free mats. As well, the vast majority of historical daguerreotypes are kept in leather and wood cases which would be quiet acidic. I would wonder about your cardboard mat; most historical mats were metal, often brass or high rag paper. I suspect the key is the sealing off of atmosphere.
As regards the colour wheel, I meant achromatic, not Ortho. Presently I am trying to assess a daguerreotype of, I think, a Calvary Lancer of Second Empire France. The various units had tunic fronts of pink, yellow, red, blue etc.
It would be very helpful, in this type of situation, to have a comparison wheel of colours to determine the shades of grey in an achromatic rendition to expect for say a pink or baby blue of the same luminance. I would expect pink to come up as dark grey and blue to come up as white, but I have not really found a good comparison tool. Of course I am assuming that your emulsion is actually achromatic and not orthochromatic.
It occurred to me that a portraitist using achromatic materials might want to know how various shades of colour are going to come out. Although I suspect lipstick was not used much by your subjects, the oriental dress might well be a mid red or green . A achromatically lighter (blue) dress might have allowed for less exposure and a more contoured face on the lady. if desired, of course.
Kindest Regards
 
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carioca

carioca

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Acid free may be a problem as most are buffered and I am led to believe the Calcium Carbonate buffering is an issue with fading. There are very pricey non buffered acid free mats. As well, the vast majority of historical daguerreotypes are kept in leather and wood cases which would be quiet acidic. I would wonder about your cardboard mat; most historical mats were metal, often brass or high rag paper. I suspect the key is the sealing off of atmosphere.
As regards the colour wheel, I meant achromatic, not Ortho. Presently I am trying to assess a daguerreotype of, I think, a Calvary Lancer of Second Empire France. The various units had tunic fronts of pink, yellow, red, blue etc.
It would be very helpful, in this type of situation, to have a comparison wheel of colours to determine the shades of grey in an achromatic rendition to expect for say a pink or baby blue of the same luminance. I would expect pink to come up as dark grey and blue to come up as white, but I have not really found a good comparison tool. Of course I am assuming that your emulsion is actually achromatic and not orthochromatic.
It occurred to me that a portraitist using achromatic materials might want to know how various shades of colour are going to come out. Although I suspect lipstick was not used much by your subjects, the oriental dress might well be a mid red or green . A achromatically lighter (blue) dress might have allowed for less exposure and a more contoured face on the lady. if desired, of course.
Kindest Regards

Thanks for the follow up.
Yes, I'll need to reframe my Dag in acid free material, to save what is left...

The spectral sensitivity of ambrotypes is quite known, please have a look at the following link:
Sensitivity of collodion

Regards
 

snusmumriken

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Apart from the lighting setup, are there any other things I should do to ensure optimal quality when digitising old daguerrotypes and tin-types of my ancestors?

(I have to say, they look a humourless bunch of old relics!)
 
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