Hi, this is my first post on this forum so hello.
I've been experimenting making digital negatives using an Epson R800 printer. I've been using Permajet OHP Transfer Film, which as I understand is essentially the same as Pictorio and printing onto Ilford Multigrade IV FB Glossy finished paper. I've been making the digital negatives using the Epson printer driver and making a correction curve to apply in Photoshop: I haven't managed to get my head around the process using QuadToneRIP.
I've been really impressed with the quality of the images I get, except for one detail - pizza wheel marks. From a normal viewing distance I can ascertain that there are some marks, which appear as slight banding, which is especially visible in lighter areas such as sky. When I look at the print under a magnifying glass I can see that the banding is actually pizza wheel marks all over the print. Also, I get a few other marks, which seem to be due to scratches on the OHP medium, caused again by the printer.
I did some searching on this forum before posting and found one post from 2006 describing a similar problem. I suspect that the solution my lie in a newer printer.
I'd be interested to hear from anyone using an Epson R2880. Do you get pizza wheel marks? If not the 2880, what is the best A3 size printer for making digital negatives?
Many thanks for reading my post.
No, there isn't.Is there an option for the R800 to control drying time between passes?
There is for the 3800...
I can't comment on Permajet, but I know those other products work fine, so either it's not the same, or there is variability in the printers. I'll bet you could purchase Arista from freestylephoto.biz or Inkpress from bhphotovideo.com in the US. These are cheaper than Pictorico and I use the same correction curve for them. Still cheaper than investing in a new printer,Hi, thanks for the reply. I should have added I live in the UK and, as far as I'm aware, Pictorico and the other makes you mention are not available in the UK. At least I haven't found a stockist. If anyone knows of one, I'd like to know.
I read on a forum somewhere that the Permajet I use was rebranded Pictorico but maybe that's not correct either.
I'm not keen on the idea of removing the pizza wheels. I also use the printer for printing colour.
Folks use QTR because they want to increase the amount of ink over what can be achieved with the Epson driver. While QTR will let you decrease negative density, you won't have a useable negative. If you can see pizza wheel marks in the shadow portions of your negatives then this won't solve the problem anyway. Try using the driver selection Printer and Option Information -> Thick paper and envelopes. This may help a bit.Thanks for the replies.
I posted a question on the Permajet website last night and they telephoned me this morning - I must say I was very impressed with the Customer Service. They told me that the Permajet OHP Transfer film is not the same as Pictorico. Further, is seems the problem is specifc to the R800 as they are not aware of any problems with other printers. Unfotunately, the R800 lacks some of the features of modern printers which could help avoid this problem. The main option with the R800 seems to be try is to remove the pizza wheels, which as I said I'm not that keen to do.
I may have to order some alternative OHP material from the States but before I do that, and there is no guarantee that will work either, I think I need to learn how to use QuadToneRip for making digital negatives. As I understand it QuadToneRip will allow me to control how much ink is put on the medium - I'm thinking that if less ink is deposited maybe the less ink will dry quicker and so the pizza marks might be less of a problem?
Folks use QTR because they want to increase the amount of ink over what can be achieved with the Epson driver. While QTR will let you decrease negative density, you won't have a useable negative. If you can see pizza wheel marks in the shadow portions of your negatives then this won't solve the problem anyway. Try using the driver selection Printer and Option Information -> Thick paper and envelopes. This may help a bit.
I calibrate a R800 at a workshop for palladium print and Agfa copyjet. I use the HSB array method and use the following color. Hue 125 saturation 100 brightness 40. I can send you the curve if you want. I use it with premium glossy paper setting. and we have no pizza wheel.
Have you tried matte black ink on the OHP?
I use this quite successfully and have all the UV blocking density I need...
Hi, thanks for your reply.
I've haven't tried using the matte black ink. I assume to do this I would need to select Matte paper and not premium glossy?
If you are using the Ultrachrome K3 inkset you definitely want to try using the matte black ink. In this inkset Matte black is much more UV absorbant than Photo black. Thus, you will be able to get denser, more contrasty negatives (like you need for palladium or platinum printing) with less ink on the transparency material.
And yes, if you are using the Epson driver, the only way to make the printer use matte black ink is to choose a matte surface paper. Any matte paper will do, but stick to the same paper once you have chosen one so that your results will be reproducible.
Cheers, Ron Reeder
Absolutely true. Using the Epson driver, I have measured a density of about 1.65 using the premium glossy photo paper media setting, but the velvet fine art dMax is over 2.6. If you do continue to use the photo black, make sure you uncheck the gloss setting in the driver -- this will turn off the gloss optimization ink channel.If you are using the Ultrachrome K3 inkset you definitely want to try using the matte black ink. In this inkset Matte black is much more UV absorbant than Photo black. Thus, you will be able to get denser, more contrasty negatives (like you need for palladium or platinum printing) with less ink on the transparency material.
And yes, if you are using the Epson driver, the only way to make the printer use matte black ink is to choose a matte surface paper. Any matte paper will do, but stick to the same paper once you have chosen one so that your results will be reproducible.
Cheers, Ron Reeder
Yes, removing the wheels screws up film feeding, but isn't a problem for paper. What kind of film are you using? The really simple solution is just to use a film that dries quickly enough to not show the markings. The pizza wheels are really Micky Mouse engineering to keep the small desktop printers inexpensive.I too have the R800, and yes i'm plagued with the pizza wheels!
There are some solutions(though doesnt fix the problem):
1. Removing ALL the pizza wheels does not allow the paper to spit out smoothly once its finished at the end.
2.The best thing to do is remove ALL the wheels EXCEPT for the LAST 2 on either END. Though this still doesn't fix the problem as you need to guide the paper when it comes out on a flat 90 degree surface so there is no bend when it spits out.
Or you need to leave a gap at the END of your printout, so you dont get the problem with the traction and bending of the paper.
It also occurs to me that you might find the matte black ink dries more quickly than the photo black, so selecting a media setting that uses matte black may actually eliminate the pizza wheels marks. Give this a try with the film you are currently using -- if this doesn't resolve the problem, then I think the next step is try a different film.Yes, removing the wheels screws up film feeding, but isn't a problem for paper. What kind of film are you using? The really simple solution is just to use a film that dries quickly enough to not show the markings. The pizza wheels are really Micky Mouse engineering to keep the small desktop printers inexpensive.
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