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I don't want to speak in absolute terms but just speak for myself. I probably haven't made the best digital print possible because I just don't have the skills and probably not the equipment. From my original post, I did see some excellent digital prints in a show about Japanese internment camps.Ahhh..will the debate ever end?
No.
You'll never know unless you have made the absolute best digital prints possible. Have you done that? Have you exhausted every possible way to squeeze out whatever qualities you want/need? If you haven't, then you'll never know.
I did that with silver gelatin prints, by using sharp and unsharp pin registered masking techniques for enlarging my 4x5 negatives to a maximum size of 11x14 and by using a glycin/metol developer which when toned in selenium gave, to my eye, an absolutely gorgeous print colour. They were the very best I could do with near absolute control over local contrast in different areas of the print and almost grain for grain dodging, such as bringing out detail in shadowed moss hanging from branches in a tree against a bright sky without effecting the sky at all.
They left me cold. Like looking through a window to the subject beyond...removed...distant from me.
I'm going to start alternative process printing. Have a feeling my prints will attain an 'art object in the hand' experience rather than what I got from silver gelatin prints. Won't know until I give it my best shot. Expect some detail will be lost, but that's what allows the magic to emerge. Will use scans of 4x5's but will also use digital camera work and expect it to be just fine, especially if I'm not going over 11x14.
A great many photographers use digitally enlarged negatives and are happy with the quality.
On a related note, I read a comment years ago about how a person saw some pin registered masked prints and they were awful, so there was no way he'd ever try it. Well, we've all seen poor dodging and burning but that's no reason to not do it! Maybe you haven't tried hard enough simply because your heart is in the darkroom.
We're cut from the same bolt!I make digital negatives from film, and sometimes from my dslr to make carbon prints, etc. I find the stress levels in the traditional darkroom much lower than in the lightroom. For example, I spent an hour trying to unclog nozzles, before I could print out the separation negatives required for a tri-colour gum. At times like those, I say to myself bugger it, I'm going back to the darkroom and silver gelatin VC papers!
I make digital negatives too. They're amazing. I think ink jet printers and digital negatives have sparked a renaissance of alternative processes. Before then, people had to make enlarged negatives and I find that very intimidating. I've made some pretty decent Ziatypes and cyanotypes with digital negatives. I'm a big fan of Peter Mrhar. I also believe in experimenting to expand my art/hobby. After all, I did experiment with ink jet printing.Well... I think that the most appropriate response to the OP is "to each their own" and "there is no right way to make art nor is there a wrong way".
I made my first photographs in 1970... 51 years ago. Tri-X, etc. all the way. I did this for many years. I am certainly of the school that one has not finished a photograph until it is printed (and matted/mounted).
I still expose 4x5 film on rare occasions but most of my exposures these days are made with a digital camera. The absence of significant cost in making digital exposures is, to me, incredibly freeing. I take many more photographic "risks" with digital than I ever did with film. This ability to experiment has made my photographs stronger.
My inkjet prints are better than anything I ever made in the darkroom. I use the Piezography Pro system these days for my monochrome work (and standard Epson inks for color work). The learning curve was steep but the view from the top was worth the effort. Never having to spot another print is an added benefit!
However, for the last year and a bit the large majority of my prints have been made in the dim room using digital negatives... mainly cyanotypes and salted-paper prints. (I am just beginning to learn platinum printing.) There is definitely something satisfying about make a print via manual labor.
My practice will, I'm sure, continue to evolve as it has for the past fifty years. Will I ever return to making silver gelatin prints? I have learned to never say "never", but I highly doubt it.
The key to me is to keep experimenting. Adopt what works to realize your vison, discard what doesn't and continue to try more new things.
I'm still looking for some. It should have save me from the frustration calibration headaches.So I guess there is some "magic pixie dust" available to a few that allows the crafting of lovely B&W digital prints.
Try Piezography. Top of the line. But you don’t need to go that far.
The best inkjet prints I’ve seen recently (by people who are excellent at it) are as good or better than anything that can be done in the darkroom, not to mention virtually limitless flexibility. And I say that as a darkroom worker who is as obsessive about print quality as it gets. No shit. Which is why I’ve decided to start learning the digital side so that I can combine the two.
Glad to see what you're doing works for you. Photographers should be discriminating about their prints. For most people, making their own darkroom prints is not feasible. Printers take up a lot less space and use a lot less water. I'm still going to try to get a decent BW print from my Canon Pro 100. I've got some work ahead.Of course here is huge difference between darkroom print from the negative and digital file. It is dead, biologically degraded and already in the form of the dust dead horse. Digital bw vs analog in 2021 is not really any different. Leica Monochrome sensors still can't produce what Kentmere 400 on Kentmere RC paper do.
Knowing this fact, these days, I just can't force myself to use film. I went from do it all stage, to I just hate it all. I hate film. Total waste of time and money. IMO.
With minimal tryouts it is not a big deal to get digital file as bw and totally not big deal to print it as true bw. My inkjet printer has check box for it. Called as "greyscale" or something. It is switching inks mix to bw only. Zero color cast.
And results are just fine.
I do agree it's a very good printer. I have tried different papers. But it's black and white that is the tough nut to crack. I get various shades of gray varying from neutral to warm. With silver gelatin printing, tones more consistent. Even between brands. I've even used my ColorMunki with I1 software to create a black and white profile. The profile is warmish. I do get beautiful color prints with it Canon Pro 100. I also use it for digital negs with varying success. Because the printer uses dye based inks that doesn't block UV light completely, I never get a true white with salted gelatin prints and Ziatypes. I think pigmented inks are better suited for digital negs. However, there was a fellow on a Facebook group that had very nice whites on his palladium prints. I had Epson printers and they make beautiful prints also. My issue is that the heads tend go clog if I don't use them regularly. So far, my dye based Canon Pro 100 hasn't clogged at all. I don't use the printer regularly. I tend to print in spurts. They're such good printers, that I got another one on a lark because Canon through B&H was clearing them out. My original one I've had for 5 years and it's worked flawlessly if it's calibrated.The canon pro-100 is a great color printer that uses 3 shades of gray inks so you should be able to make a decent black and white print. You won’t be able to use QTR as it only works with Epson printers so you won’t be able to convert it to Piezography. Piezography is truly phenomenal and I wouldn’t go back to wet prints unless I was using a digital negative. Have you tried different papers with the canon ?
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