Differences between Ilford Warmtone Developer and Bromophen

Hey Everyone,

So I know and have used Dektol and Ilford Multigrade Developer however I was a bit confused on where Ilford Warmtone Developer and Bromophen sit in terms of characteristics compared to those two more "standard" "neutral" developers

Obviously Warmtone increases warmth on a B&W print however in the Bromophen Data sheet is also specifies that it slightly warms the image tone as well? What would be the placement and purpose of these two. I'm going to go out and do some of my own testing in the next few weeks when I have time but I wondered if anyone had information on this

Some want a powder developer hence Bromophen, HArman Warm tone developer just goes tha step further with an increase in Bromide increasing warmth.

Historically Ilford sold ID-20 as a Universal developer (powder) and then a PQ version but there were complaints of colour shifts (warmth) so they reformulated by adding Benzotriazole which needed to be sold as a liquid cincentrat PQ Uninversal. Bromophen is probably the PQ version of ID-20. Ilford didn't make a Warmtone paper for some years after dropping Ilfomar and ID-78 their warm tone powder developer.

When they introduced Ilford Warmtone papers they reformulated ID-78 as HArman Wamtone developer. The only real difference between PQ Universal and Warmtone developer is the latter has no Benzotriazole and increased Bromide and that makes a significant difference to warmth.

Ian

This is slightly off topic but after a 3 year layoff from DR printing I’m using Classic and MGRC Deluxe with Harmons Multigrade developer vs Bromophen, my last paper developer. Multigrade developer is very convenient.

Has anyone used PQ paper developer with the two papers and will PQ shift the image to a meaningful warmer tone. I’m not looking for large shift to warm black but a tilt to the warm side to add interest. The new RC paper has many great attributes but for some images seems generic.

I can't answer your exact question, but using MGFB in ID-78 (which I make with potassium carbonate which is reputed to make it a bit warmer) the amount of warm tone is extremely subtle. I am happy with the very extremely slight warm tone because I don't like a cool black look. It has been decades since I had a cool black look, and it wasn't with Ilford or Agfa paper. It was a cheap paper whose name I have long forgotten.

I would hazard a guess that you will not have to worry about a "large shift" to warm black. For that. you need to tone.

Like John, I've recently been making my own ID-78 warmtone developer. (really disgusted with the two bags of "brown sugar" Dektol I got from Kodak last summer) I've been pairing ID-78 with both Ilford Warmtone FB paper, and Bergger's Warmtone Ivory base FB, and both come out beautifully: not Brown with a capital B, but subtle brownish-black tones. Its only obvious when comparing a print made on standard Multigrade paper processed in Dektol. If you're familiar with how Agfa Portriga Rapid used to look, its similar to that, colorwise.

I have used Bromophen with Classic. I recall it had a kinda warmish straw look. That cleared up with 3 min in 1:10 KRST. .
My print developer was LPD before Bromo and PQ with Forte PWT+ and Oriental WT. My guess with Ilford’s new papers PQ is similar to Bromo. May have softer highlights.

I’m at the end of my analog work and believe I can print nice enough images with untoned Classic and MGRC. The two are an uncanny match in speed, contrast, and print color. MGRC Deluxe seems more resistant to changes in KRST from my tests. Why bother unless you want more print protection.

The RC impressively reduces process time and I can trade some print quality for less processing. That said I’m looking for ways to make MGRC Deluxe image tone more interesting. Any tips are welcome.