Diameter of Close-up Filters

[yeknom02]

Sort of a simple question (I hope...)

I have a 80mm lens for my Hasselblad 500C/M which features a B60 filter mount. I also have a B60-to-67mm conversion ring in case I can't find the filter I want in a B60 mount. My question is, when looking for closer focusing options, should I be looking for a B60 close-up filter, or would a 67mm filter be acceptable? This comes from the fact that I've been told that a close-up "filter" is really a diopter. I'm wondering if the diameter of the optical element would affect its characteristics.

Thanks!

 

[Monito]

They are lenses (have diopters). The diameter doesn't matter, other than for vignetting issues. Bigger diameter might be slightly better as you might be getting a little less of the edge of the glass, but I don't think it would really be detectable, since the add-on closeup lenses aren't very good generally. I don't know about the Canon or Hasselblad ones; they might be considerably better than Tiffens. I gave up using Tiffens years ago and bought a Canon proper macro lens last year.

 

[brucemuir]

I've used the Zeiss Proxars for H'blad and I was quite pleased with the results considering how much badmouthing they get.
In Wildi's book it even says they were discontinued due to image quality. (gotta love their high standards).

Bay 60 stuff can be expensive even today but Proxars aren't a high demand item so you may get lucky.

I'd try a Bay 60 Proxar. I always hated fiddling with adapters and the h'blad bayonet makes things clean and u can still use hoods.

 

[Sparky]

that's crazy... why do you want to use a close up filter when you can simply use an extension ring??? the latter are cheaper and will give you a far superior quality result.

 

[brucemuir]

that's crazy... why do you want to use a close up filter when you can simply use an extension ring??? the latter are cheaper and will give you a far superior quality result.

Guess you aren't familiar with 'blad prices.

 

[Sparky]

Bruce - yep. I'm EXTREMELY familiar... Extension rings generally cost $25-50 used on a good day- I just bought another recently for around that. I use 10mm, 21mm and 55mm. I think the proxars cost a good deal more than that on the used market. That's what I base my comments on...

 

[John Koehrer]

But if you're buying cheapies, three + lenses in a case is still cheaper than the rings and the Proxars.
If the OP's just messin' it won't make no never mind.

 

[brucemuir]

Yea,
i guess bay 60 can get up there but I'm using bay 50 and proxars are under 10.00usd if you are patient.
I think bay 60 proxars are closer to 30-40.00.

Last I was watching an older 55 (less useful to me) was at around 50.00 with the 8,16,21 around 30.00 and up
The non E versions can indeed be had cheaply for sure if you shop right.
I definitely agree that tubes give better IQ.

 

[yeknom02]

Well, now I'm thinking an extension tube would serve my purposes better. The question is, what's a good model to shop for? I'm trying to simply be able to focus a bit closer rather than do any serious macro work. Also, I've got the 80mm Zeiss CF T* lens.

 

[Monito]

If you use this calculator, you can set it up for your focal length and film size and type in an Extension in mm and press Enter. You can see the effect that different lengths would have and see if it would suit your projected requirements.

http://eosdoc.com/jlcalc/

 

[jeffreyg]

Extension tubes come in different lengths and can be stacked. Some web searching will probably turn up a chart that will give you the specs such as focus distance, magnification, depth of field and exposure compensation for the different tube and lens combination. I have an 8, 16, 32 and 56. One tube may not give you the magnification you need. They work fine and the sharpness depends on your lens since they have no glass. I also have bayonet adapters that I use with some 67mm filters that I had and for some that were not available in B mounts. What is acceptable to you may not be to someone else. Generally speaking, macro photography would call for a high degree of sharpness so the glass you are placing in front of a lens should be of the highest quality.

http://www.jeffreyglasser.com/