Remember that development controls contrast and exposure controls density.
+1 on what Rick A and Gerald Koch saidHey snapdood, he isn't spouting off as a perfesser, he's stating the obvious. (...) and get " you should ferget what yer usin and use what I'm usin, cause yer a dumbarse and I know everything".
I always thought that an over developed film increases both contrast and density.
Increased development increases density in proportion to exposure, meaning there is a relatively small increase in density in low exposure areas. That's why contrast increases.
Gerald was referring to an equal increase in density in all areas of the negative (from shadows to highlights). This comes from increased exposure.
Yes and no. If development is extended past what is needed to produce good shadow detail the extra density serves no purpose and only increases print times. To keep things simple it is best to decouple density and contrast.
I have always been fond of the old Charlie Chan mysteries. In particular his aphorisms such as "Better not speak and appear dumb than speak and remove all doubt."
But density is still increased, which makes your original statement incorrect.
But in your original post, you did not mention useful density. You also mentioned:- If you are experiencing constant difficulties with contrast then try a different developer which may be more suitable for your method. Would not a different time/temperature with the same developer be a better solution to solve this problem?
Please note I'm not trying to be antagonistic, but you are not being quite factual.
Kodak "safety factor" -- what a hoot. Dumb bunny stuff like that is why the company went belly-up. But, yes, that was their excuse for lying to the consumer. Professional photographers and those who wanted to get things right resented it. Tell us the truth and give your "engineers" and p. r. flacks the training wheels for their Studebakers and Edsels.
Jes' love to be lectured to by some self-appointed Perfesser of Photography and How The World Should Be Run. Everything you say if iffy, if not just wrong. Not to mention the last time I looked, it is still a free country. Some people like to shake things up and do it differently. I attended some Leica Flying Short Courses where the Leitz company flew "experts" around the country and gave the Word From Mt. Olympus to us mAsses. They said shoot and develop your film so as to have to print the negs with use of Grade Four Single Grade photo paper. This was stupid. They said you could not possibly use a 35mm camera that had a motor drive because static electricity would ruin the film. OF course, Leica invented the durn 325mm still camera to use 35mm motion picture film which normally runs at 16 frames a second and up. Without static electricity. Kodak used to lie about the ASA of their b&w films so you would overexpose and at least get something they could print up for you. The world is full of self-appointed "experts" including you.
I would like to correct a misconception that has appeared more than once in the past few months. That is the erroneous belief that development times are immutable. They are only suggestions based on the assumption that your development method is fairly standard as concerns such things as agitation and temperature control. If one is experiencing more or less contrast than is considered normal then it is permissible to change the developing time. You will be adjusting for your development method. Therefore you should make it clear to anyone who asks that the particular time represents your method and may not be best for others. So many newbies ask for help and are swamped with conflicting advice. It is always best to start with the manufacturers suggestion rather than ask others.
If you are experiencing unusual negative density then your exposure needs adjustment not the developing time. Remember that development controls contrast and exposure controls density. It is difficult to distinguish between a negative that is too contrasty from one that is too dense. A similar problem exists for "thin" negatives. Those new to photography find this particularly difficult. This makes it important to start out with a standard developer and a standard time and temperature.
As an added caveat never tinker with the developer formulation. If you are experiencing constant difficulties with contrast then try a different developer which may be more suitable for your method. There are certainly many available. Never, ever, mix two developers together on the mistaken notion that will get a combination of what is good in each of them. You are more likely to get a combination of all that is bad. I was appalled at a popular and usually reputable website advocating such a idea.
Some people are afraid to change from what is recommended even when they are getting poor results. Rather than modifying development times they...
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