Development time for overexposed Tri-X?

Mike Pieper · Jul 24, 2010

I just did something stupid, and overexposed Tri-X (120 format) by 2 stops. I was shooting with another camera at ISO 100 and wanted to get a few shots with my old Rolleicord, but forgot to compensate (used the same settings as my other camera)! Anyone have any recommendations as to development time with D-76 1+1 in order to get the most out of this overexposed film?

Mainecoonmaniac · Jul 24, 2010

Take a look at this website

http://www.digitaltruth.com/devchart.php

This chart could get you close. Good luck!

Mike Pieper · Jul 24, 2010

Thanks!! They have times for ISO 50 (7 min) and ISO 200 (9.5 min), so I guess I should probably try a time midway between those two (a little over 8 min.)

Mainecoonmaniac · Jul 25, 2010

If the film is important

If you want, you could a lead snip test. Again. Best of luck.

Snapper · Mar 7, 2011

I've just made a similar mistake - shot a roll of Tri-X at iso 100. Any suggestions about the best way to rescue this film?

I usually use Rodinal or HC-110, but I'm open to trying a different developer. What would be a good method to get the best out of this film?

hpulley · Mar 7, 2011

Honestly, Tri-X can take 2 stops overexposed without breaking a sweat. I might even develop it normally.

3 stops over you might want to take the edge off but most negative film can be 6 stops overexposed and still print fine.

HC-110 would be what I'd use.

softshock · Mar 7, 2011

It's not overexposed, it's pushed

John Wiegerink · Mar 7, 2011

Pushed? Really? I thought you'd be pulling. Maybe pulling my leg. I think Snapper would be just fine in either Hc-110 or Rodinal, but if I had some Ilford Perceptol on hand I'd try that. Of course you might be after excessive "grain" look and then Rodinal would be best. JohnW

John Wiegerink · Mar 7, 2011

Snapper, if your scenes were shot outside in "high contrast" conditions you then might want to use Rodinal 1:100 or 1:200 with stand development to try and keep the highlights from blowing. That is if the highlights are important. JohnW

removed account4 · Mar 7, 2011

it has always been suggested to not worry about 1 stop either way, but each stop over 1 add 30% more development
this is a generic suggestion, your lighting, lens, film, age of developer, temperature, agitation methodology & many other variables
will all add or subtract time to this suggested-starting-point.

if they were my films ( both ) i would use the most forgiving developer i could find ... and stand develop it in caffenolC for 25 minutes with 30cc of whatever print developer you happen to have on hand / 1L of caffenol. i use ansco 130 that is about a year old.

but then again, since you are using a kodak film and kodak developer ... why not call kodak and ask what they would suggest you do

they have always been very helpful when i have had questions ..

good luck !
john

Saganich · Mar 9, 2011

HC-110 1:40 8 minutes 20C light agitation. It will be dense but you will see some advantages to that.

Doremus Scudder · Mar 10, 2011

2 stops overexposed with normal or low contrast -- develop as usual and just print through the added density. Tri-X will not block up highlights, but you'll get more grain.

2 stops overexposed and predominantly high-contrast scenes -- underdevelop. Use your N-1 if you are a Zone System user, if not, reduce development 20%. You'll likely have to use a higher paper grade, but the highlights will stay off the film shoulder and have more detail.

There is a lot of misleading information in this thread so far, so think through what you want to do and why.

However, you are not "pushing," which is intentionally underexposing film and increasing development to compensate somewhat.

Nor do you need to increase development, which increases contrast by developing the highlight areas even more; exactly what you don't need.

Your normal contrast scenes will simply be two Zones (stops) more exposed than usual. This means that Zone VIII highlights will hit Zone X, something Tri-X does just fine without losing detail in the highlights.

Stick to the development you know. You take a bigger chance by trying untested procedures.

Best,

Doremus Scudder
www.DoremusScudder

Thomas Bertilsson · Mar 11, 2011

I would agree with everything in this post.

Just because you overexpose your film you don't have to take dramatic measures such as completely changing how you process film to get decent results.
Tri-X is very robust, and can easily handle two stops of overexposure. When you process your film, just cut development time somewhat - the 20% suggested sounds like a plan, and all of a sudden you're in the ball park again.

Your shadow tones will be higher than normal, so the idea of compensating for it by using a higher contrast paper or filter when you print is spot on as well.

Your film will be just fine with just a minor adjustment.

- Thomas

Doremus Scudder said:
2 stops overexposed with normal or low contrast -- develop as usual and just print through the added density. Tri-X will not block up highlights, but you'll get more grain.

2 stops overexposed and predominantly high-contrast scenes -- underdevelop. Use your N-1 if you are a Zone System user, if not, reduce development 20%. You'll likely have to use a higher paper grade, but the highlights will stay off the film shoulder and have more detail.

There is a lot of misleading information in this thread so far, so think through what you want to do and why.

However, you are not "pushing," which is intentionally underexposing film and increasing development to compensate somewhat.

Nor do you need to increase development, which increases contrast by developing the highlight areas even more; exactly what you don't need.

Your normal contrast scenes will simply be two Zones (stops) more exposed than usual. This means that Zone VIII highlights will hit Zone X, something Tri-X does just fine without losing detail in the highlights.

Stick to the development you know. You take a bigger chance by trying untested procedures.

Best,

Doremus Scudder
www.DoremusScudder

Gerald C Koch · Mar 11, 2011

Using a developer such as Perceptol which normally causes a speed loss can help. A one stop overexposure can be printed through. With two stops exposure times get to be long and there is some loss of definition..

Development time for overexposed Tri-X?

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