Development for POP printing

Schlapp · May 25, 2006

I've acquired some Adox 400 sheet film 5x7 which I use in my old FKD. I'm trying to get enough contrast for POP printing - so far with little success. I have been told that using Ilford PQ Universal print developer will achieve better contrast - instead of my normal Aculux2 or fx-39.
Has anyone any advice regarding the times for PQ Universal with this film please.

psvensson · May 25, 2006

I doubt you'll find anyone using that exact combination, but let me chip in with what I know. I've developed FP4+ 5x7 in Neutol WA paper developer 1+7 for cyanotypes. My times were a little above two minutes. A 400 speed film would need more time, and POP a lot more. I would start with 4-5 minutes if I were you.

c6h6o3 · May 25, 2006

You need a ton of density with POP. You also need to control the contrast well in the negative, because you have very little contrast control when printing POP.

I'd use a staining developer. My favorite is 510 pyro.

Jim Noel · May 25, 2006

Ilford Universal PQ will give you an amazing amount of contrast in most any film.

I have used it at 1:4 for building contrast and it will go almost off the charts.

Sorry but I don't have development times at hand at the moment.

mark · May 25, 2006

I do not use that combination. I use pyrocat-HD for pop or DDX and JandC 200 and Efke PL100. I get plenty of contrast with the Efke but the JandC is a little on the un contrasty side in the development arena, so I get the contrast at the scene by shooting in really contrasty light. I have used the print developer to process copy negs and the contrast was a PIA to control. As was said it will produce contrast that goes off the charts.

For POP, the shortest exposure time I have gotten is 13 minutes, but I cook the hell out of the paper and then fix before toning in KRST. Good luck.

Schlapp · May 26, 2006

Many thanks all

Roger Hicks · May 26, 2006

I seriously doubt that many ISO 400 films can deliver enough contrast for POP in anything. For POP I use Ilford FP4 Plus and Ortho Plus, both of which can be developed to a high gamma in almost anything.

Because of the inherent self-masking of POP, you can get excellent prints from a wide range of contrasts, as long as you have plenty of contrast (too little won't work). As the shadows darken, they mask the emulsion behind them and darkening slows in those areas while continuing apace in the highlights.

Cheers,

Roger (www.rogerandfrances.com)

donbga · May 26, 2006

Roger Hicks said:
I seriously doubt that many ISO 400 films can deliver enough contrast for POP in anything. For POP I use Ilford FP4 Plus and Ortho Plus, both of which can be developed to a high gamma in almost anything.

Because of the inherent self-masking of POP, you can get excellent prints from a wide range of contrasts, as long as you have plenty of contrast (too little won't work). As the shadows darken, they mask the emulsion behind them and darkening slows in those areas while continuing apace in the highlights.

Cheers,

Roger (www.rogerandfrances.com)

Roger,

So you don't think Kodak Tri-X, TMAX 400, or HP5 can't be developed for POP?

Roger Hicks · May 26, 2006

donbga said:
Roger,

So you don't think Kodak Tri-X, TMAX 400, or HP5 can't be developed for POP?

Dear Don,

Well, put it this way. I couldn't get the contrast that I wanted from HP5 Plus for POP and when I spoke to Mike Gristwood about it (this was obviously before the bankruptcy) he agreed that getting a gamma of much over 1.0 out of HP5 was hard work and that 1.2 to 1.3 (which was what I was looking for) was probably out of sight.

I don't say it can't be done; I just said I doubt it.

Cheers,

Roger

Ole · May 26, 2006

The best result I've had so far was from a negative developed norrmally, and then bleached and redeveloped in a pyrogallol/sodium carbonate mix. No sulfite at all, the "redeveloper" lasted just long enough to do the job.

sanking · May 26, 2006

Roger Hicks said:
I seriously doubt that many ISO 400 films can deliver enough contrast for POP in anything. For POP I use Ilford FP4 Plus and Ortho Plus, both of which can be developed to a high gamma in almost anything.

Roger (www.rogerandfrances.com)

Since POP is primarily a UV sensitive process you can get a lot more effective printing contrast with most films by developing in a staining developer. I would recommend a 5:3:100 dilution of Pyrocat-HD.

If the scene you are photographing is one of normal contrast you can get plenty of contrast for POP with most ISO 400 films, including HP5+, TRI-X 320 and JancC 400. However, if you are photograhing a low contrast scene the only ISO 400 film (that I know) that will give you enough contrast for POP is TMAX 400.

If you can live with its speed Ilford FP4+ is an excellent film for developing to a high CI.

Sandy

sanking · May 26, 2006

Roger Hicks said:
Dear Don,

Well, put it this way. I couldn't get the contrast that I wanted from HP5 Plus for POP and when I spoke to Mike Gristwood about it (this was obviously before the bankruptcy) he agreed that getting a gamma of much over 1.0 out of HP5 was hard work and that 1.2 to 1.3 (which was what I was looking for) was probably out of sight.

I don't say it can't be done; I just said I doubt it.

Cheers,

Roger

Roger,

HP5+ developed in Pyrocat-HD 5:3:100 at 72F for 16 minutes (slow speed rotary agitation) will give an approximate CI of slightly more than 1.2, if measured by UV mode as would be appropriate for POP.

Sandy

Roger Hicks · May 27, 2006

Dear Sandy,

Thanks very much indeed for that one. I had achieved adequate contrast for contrasty subjects in D19 but the trick with staining developers had not occurred to me (or, apparently, Mike).

Once again, thanks,

Cheers,

Roger

sanking · May 27, 2006

Roger Hicks said:
Dear Sandy,

Thanks very much indeed for that one. I had achieved adequate contrast for contrasty subjects in D19 but the trick with staining developers had not occurred to me (or, apparently, Mike).

Once again, thanks,

Cheers,

Roger

Roger,

Just for the record, I agree with you about HP4+ in non-staining developers. I have not been able to get a CI from it of more than about 1.0 with any of the high energy developers I have tried, including D-11 and D-19.

You can use other staining developers of course. I gave the values for Pyrocat-HD because I have done specific sensitometry tests with it for this very purpose, i.e. getting as much CI as possible from HP5+ for alternative printing with UV sensitive processes.

Best,

Sandy

Development for POP printing

Moderator

Privacy & Transparency

Privacy & Transparency