Sorry, I just realised I posted this thread in the Color Forum. Is there a way to move it to B&W?
Donald is correct about this.Best way to move the thread is to use the "report this post" button in the lower left of the first entry, and in the free-form fill-in box, explain briefly. A moderator can then move the thread to the B&W film and developing section.
7 minutes was my rough guess as well. I'll give it a go.For 100 speed from 1964, I'd probably use 7 minutes in Dilution B.
Thank you Matt for moving the thread.I'll attend to moving the thread.
I heard of Perutz but don't know much about them. Time to do some research. Thank you for your suggestion.I assume this film to have been made by Perutz.
I heard of Perutz but don't know much about them. Time to do some research.
they were an independant film brand in germany, and were eventually Bought out by Agfa.
Push-Processing Formulas
Thanks for this formula - presumably from The Darkroom Cookbook?Push-Processing Formulas
How do I know if I overdeveloped or the film is just heavily fogged from age and poor storage?
Thanks for this formula - presumably from The Darkroom Cookbook?
I'll file it at the back of my brain as I'm sure it will come in useful sometime.
Terry S
You must photograph this roll at ISO 6Hi Mohmad. Thanks for the Diafine formula. I looked at compensating developers some time ago (including different dilutions of HC-110 as a two-bath developer) but it seems that an active developer like HC-110 (B) is what most people use for developing very expired film. Stand development is another option though I never tried it myself. Diafine might be good for unknown film like this Ver-i-pan but I could not find it in Australia. Mixing Diafine from raw chemicals is not economical considering I just want to develop two rolls of "mystery" film.
Thanks Donald. There's hardly anything worth printing on these "mystery" rolls so I'll just do a quick-and-dirty scan of the negatives in low resolution for the web. I want to give Farmer's Reducer a try. I never used it before and I'd rather experiment on somebody else's junk negatives than risking ruining my own worthless pictures.Given you've got only one, you might try mixing up some Farmer's Reducer (cutting formula) and very carefully bleaching part of the roll you've already processed
No mystery here. I bought a bunch of undeveloped film from the US on an online auction. I needed 616/116 type backing paper for re-spooling new film and the rest came with it. The backing paper and the 616 film were badly damaged when the roll was incorrectly loaded in the camera some 60-70 years ago. It is unusable. So there's another batch of undeveloped film coming from the UK this time. And yes, I could have bought a very nice 120-type folder and a bag of film for the amount I am spending just on the backing paper. Money can't buy you love. Peace!wonder how the undeveloped roll landed in Australia
Yes, I know some amateurs who buy old cameras from scrap shops, provided that they contain a film that has been filmedNo mystery here. I bought a bunch of undeveloped film from the US on an online auction. I needed 616/116 type backing paper for re-spooling new film and the rest came with it. The backing paper and the 616 film were badly damaged when the roll was incorrectly loaded in the camera some 60-70 years ago. It is unusable. So there's another batch of undeveloped film coming from the UK this time. And yes, I could have bought a very nice 120-type folder and a bag of film for the amount I am spending just on the backing paper. Money can't buy you love. Peace!
I advise you to buy chemical raw materials
This is great, I'm really happy for you, I wish you success.Finally, I found a local supplier who sells raw chemistry at reasonable prices. Now I can make both Diafine and Farmer's reducer. What I would like to try is to shoot the same scene on the whole roll of expired 35 mm film, cut it in 4-5 frame strips and use different developers like HC-110, Rodinal (normal and stand), Diafine, and maybe monobath to see what results they give. Ideally, I'd like to find a 30 ft roll of very expired but not completely dead film for the experiment. Otherwise, Svema 64 might do the job.
By the way, the results you achieved with Svema are impressive. The box speed for the film would be 64 GOST/ISO (unless you got Svema-32). So you are shooting it 3 stops below the box speed. The film would be around 30 years old by now if not older.
And it's not me it's the Beatles. The guys marching on the Christmas parade in the last photo would come home to the Beatles playing from their vacuum-tube radios.
Yes, this is very helpful. You got to be Daniel Keating (see the first link) to process very expired Svema in X-ray developer! Just make sure you shoot with a sharp lens like Jupiter-8.You may find these of interest.
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