And when I print they all come out out-of-focus but the negatives look sharp but that's probably a mix of me not shooting well enough and because I can't get a sharp image
Do you mean you can't focus the enlarger because the negatives are so dark? Is the aperture open, using no filters for focusing?
You might have overexposed the film. Overdevelopment of well exposed film usually leaves at least a few shadow areas not too dense.
Regarding the original question, makers of film as well as if developers put out data sheets with that information. Check web sites, usually you also find th linked on online shop description pages of the products.
Rodinal was 50+1, 18 degrees - but I've heard a bit of negativity around RodinalThere are still too many unknowns: strength of Rodinal, temp, etc. as well as initial exposure conditions. I often use Rodinal for triX, but there are better developer choices for this film.
I assume you have used other films with Rodinal and got good results. The massive development charts list TriX shot at 400 in Rodinal 1:50 for 13 minutes, if the massive development chart is to be believed looks like you over developed by a full stop. Still you should be able to print without much to much troubles. I know that are those who like trix and Rodinal combo, it is not my choice too much grain for my taste. I use D76, F76+ or Xtol.
Yeah, I messed up with using too little fixer as well...
Is it possible that you still have silver that needs to be removed from the film? You can always toss them back into the fixer, rewash and dry.
Is it possible that you still have silver that needs to be removed from the film? You can always toss them back into the fixer, rewash and dry.
+1 - and if this is the case, it would contribute to the results appearing un-sharp.
Lately, I’ve been using Rollei One Shot R09 to develop Tri-X. At 1:25 for seven minutes at 20C. It gives pretty good results but as Paul Howell mentioned, prominent grain. I found adding time to the fixer helps, I’m using Ilford Rapid Fix but have almost doubled the time. Mostly, I’m just trying to use what’s left in the bottle before going back to HC-110 at 1:47.
I usually check processing times on the Massive Developement Chart, but only as a last resort. I would prefer to go with times proved by either the film manufacturer or the developer manfacturer, if available.
lso showing 14 minutes for Tri-X at 20*c in a 1+50 dilution.
It depends on what ISO you shot at, and the developer you used. Where did you get your processing info? Did you look it up on the Massive Development Chart?
I prefer my negatives on the dark side , slightly over exposed and not over developed, unless I'm going to print using an alt process (salted paper, VDB, cyano, etc.).
Heya
I just shot with tri-x 400 for the first time and I developed it for 14 mins, agitating for 5 secs every minute... I read that on a forum but I'm not sure if that was too little or too long and if that was enough agitation. Can anyone help?
All my negatives are a bit on the dark side
Thanks
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