Plus, they're free to download.
If you can get to Photrio, Ilford is just another spelling.
There's tons of product information online, you've just got to look and see it to know the correct answers.
Yes, I use 2 minutes with Bromophen @ 20°C with current Ilford and Foma papers. 3 minutes works great and may produce a more pleasing print. Fiber base seems to be better with a bit longer times 2-3 minutes, depends on the developer. Ilford is the best source of information on their products.
But the generic advice of starting with 2 min is generally what I do with any first test strip of my own.
Ilford is the best source of information on their products.
Sorry that message was for someone else trying to be a smart ass to me. Well the data sheets you sent me is just for RC. See I'm new here and new to this stuff and I also have a hard time so instead of data sheets I really just wanted you or someone to just type the times for me here. That's all I wanted but it's something no one can do for me. I don't need to be here and I don't need to be bullied so please remove me from this site. Someone will be contacting the owner of this site for what was said to me from someone on here it was uncalled for.
paper should be developed to completion.
"Develop to completion"That's the only way to know you're enlarging properly.
I don't understand you here, Drew. If the paper receives enough light to achieve DMax, and you develop it adequately, DMax is what you'll get. The negative only determines whether the paper does receive enough light to achieve DMax, surely? Please tell me where I'm wrong.Hmm, Nicholas ... my Ilford papers apparently didn't read your instruction manual stating that anything longer then 3 min will not add to DMax. You fail to factor the often significant differences between one negative to another
I have never understood the Ilford instruction that development may be extended to 6 min without increasing fog levels. Why would anyone want to do that, when DMax is reached in at most half that time?
That's the only way to know you're enlarging properly.
If I'm developing prints in batches - e.g. six at a time for the postcard print exchange - I usually use an extended development time. That helps prevent any development inconsistencies between the prints, due to inconsistencies of agitation and actual per print development time.
I have never understood the Ilford instruction that development may be extended to 6 min without increasing fog levels. Why would anyone want to do that, when DMax is reached in at most half that time?
If I'm developing prints in batches - e.g. six at a time for the postcard print exchange - I usually use an extended development time. That helps prevent any development inconsistencies between the prints, due to inconsistencies of agitation and actual per print development time.
In theory, I should use the times given by Ilford but in practise they go out of the window. I use techniques where I use water rinses out of the dish if I need to reduce density or brush on neat developer to increase depth of tone but in any these, this can increase developing to over 4 mins. Because the stages needed with this technique are quite complex I very rarely use them (Only with difficult negatives) As a matter of course I rarely give less than 3 mins with fibre based paper. The stop bath and fixing are also increased but with the increased time I use wash aid to kill remains of the fixer in the fibres of the paper.
How are you guys determining "development to completion"? Are you eye-balling it or making measurements.
How are you guys determining "development to completion"? Are you eye-balling it or making measurements.
It's hard to eyeball in darkroom conditions. I regularly develop Ilford MGFB classic for 3 minutes and use the same time for RC. I have never had a properly exposed print show any signs of overdevelopment at that time. I know of some who will go to 7 minutes or develop at warmer temperatures (like 75ºF) without issue and get wonderful, deep blacks.
Is the wash aid Photo Flo?
So is 3 minutes or 7 minutes "development to completion"?
No hard and fast rule. It depends on what you want from the print, and how you have exposed it. Develop to taste.
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